"I am not drinking f****** Merlot!" This single quote from 2004 is sited by many to be the decline of Merlot in the United States. This is despite the fact that the prized bottle was 1961 Château Cheval Blanc which is a Cabernet Franc / Merlot Blend.
Merlot, much like any other popular varietal, can suffer from wineries that do not show it the utmost care and do not plant it in the ideal spots.
In the past years I have become a very big fan of Merlot (or as my friend Dave tells winemaker's "good Merlot"). At recent tastings at Cardinale and Jarvis, the W.S. Keyes and 2009 Merlot respectively, were both the highlights of my tasting flight. Others in Napa Valley (including Darioush, Pride, Hourglass, Realm) produce world class Merlot that show integrated tannin, show dark fruits and a long smooth finish. While each has its own distinct style each of these wineries make Merlot that would convert any naysayer.
Wine Spectator has rated 57 wines from the 2008-2010 vintages 90 points or higher and all but two retail for under $100. Almost 40% of those with a 90 rating (from Napa alone) retail for under $50. The price quality ratio for "good Merlot" is much better than that of Napa Cabernet.
Broadening our search in the same vintages 2008-2010 Washington state had 85 Merlot's rated 90 points or higher under $50 out of 95 total Merlot's rated 90 points or above.
On the east coast the defining varietal for Long Island and there are many strong producers.
With so many options available those who have abandoned Merlot should return. You will not be disappointed!
Tuesday, April 9, 2013
Sunday, April 7, 2013
Disappointment in the cellar
Yesterday I opened a wine with some age (8 years) which I had looked forward to drinking since its purchase some years ago. It was a California Cabernet from a well known producer which I visited on one of my trips to Napa Valley. My hope for the wine was that the tannin and fruit would have subsided, but not disappeared, allowing secondary notes of earth, tobacco and any other surprises to appear.
After popping the cork the first thing I do with an aged wine is immediately smell for cork taint. After passing the first test I poured it into the glass and took a sip. The wine still had fruit notes but something was off. Within a few sips I realized the wine was flat. It was not corked or ruined it just did not have any life left in the wine. It was tired, flat or any other adjective that comes to mind.
I have read that wines can go into a transition period in the cellar. During this transition period that wine goes into a sort of hibernation where it does not show itself in prominence while it develops those secondary notes.
I am hoping this is the case with this wine and since I have three bottles left in the cellar I will try again on the vintages tenth birthday.
A disappointing Saturday night.
After popping the cork the first thing I do with an aged wine is immediately smell for cork taint. After passing the first test I poured it into the glass and took a sip. The wine still had fruit notes but something was off. Within a few sips I realized the wine was flat. It was not corked or ruined it just did not have any life left in the wine. It was tired, flat or any other adjective that comes to mind.
I have read that wines can go into a transition period in the cellar. During this transition period that wine goes into a sort of hibernation where it does not show itself in prominence while it develops those secondary notes.
I am hoping this is the case with this wine and since I have three bottles left in the cellar I will try again on the vintages tenth birthday.
A disappointing Saturday night.
Friday, April 5, 2013
Friday Night 04/05/2013
Girard Winery is one of my staples for great Cabernet. I have been a wine club member since 2006 switching from general wine club to cabernet only wine club in 2010. Tonight I decided to open one of my latest shipments from Girard which is the 2010 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon.
As described by the winery: "...this Cabernet Sauvignon is normally blended into our signature red blend, the ‘Artistry’." The Artistry is one of their flag ship wines so I was excited to try this Cabernet. The Composition is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, .7% Cabernet Franc, .3% Malbec
This wine can be summarized in one word; velvet. The wine coats your mouth from the initial taste, continues through the mid palate and the finish lasts over 25 seconds. The tannins are structured but not overpowering and hold the silk taste through the entire sip. The smoothness is accompanied by rich, almost dessert flavors, think caramel covered red fruit.
The Oakville Cabernet is a nice change from their mountain fruit Cabernet's (Mt. Veeder, Diamond Mt., Atlas Peak) due to the integrated tannin.
Recommendation- a great representation of an Oakville Cabernet. Normally 'easy-drinking' denotes 'not good' but in this case it is a decadent wine that invokes all the taste buds.
The price to quality ratio for this wine is excellent. $50 from the website, $40 for wine club members.
Editors' Note - I paid wine club price for these wines.
As described by the winery: "...this Cabernet Sauvignon is normally blended into our signature red blend, the ‘Artistry’." The Artistry is one of their flag ship wines so I was excited to try this Cabernet. The Composition is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, .7% Cabernet Franc, .3% Malbec
This wine can be summarized in one word; velvet. The wine coats your mouth from the initial taste, continues through the mid palate and the finish lasts over 25 seconds. The tannins are structured but not overpowering and hold the silk taste through the entire sip. The smoothness is accompanied by rich, almost dessert flavors, think caramel covered red fruit.
The Oakville Cabernet is a nice change from their mountain fruit Cabernet's (Mt. Veeder, Diamond Mt., Atlas Peak) due to the integrated tannin.
Recommendation- a great representation of an Oakville Cabernet. Normally 'easy-drinking' denotes 'not good' but in this case it is a decadent wine that invokes all the taste buds.
The price to quality ratio for this wine is excellent. $50 from the website, $40 for wine club members.
Editors' Note - I paid wine club price for these wines.
Thursday, April 4, 2013
What I Drank 04/03/2013
Purchasing wine when out a restaurant can be a daunting task. Price gouging is the number one issue on my mind. The restaurant I was at last night was selling for double retail price which I find acceptable ($47 retail, $84 on the wine list). I found this even more acceptable as we presented with Pinot Noir glasses once we ordered.
Prior to last night I have not tried nor heard of Emeritus Vineyards but we agreed to try something new. After some quick research I learned that Hallberg Ranch is located in the Russian River Valley and is the estate vineyard of Emeritus. Based on my recent good fortunes with 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot's, I selected the 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch.
The 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch did not disappoint. The front palate had a mix of ripe raspberry and blackberry flavors coated with coffee grinds. The ripe berry flavors continued boldly through the mid palate held by the firm structure and balanced acidity. The finish is bit shorter than expected and I was hoping for a bit more complexity.
Overall a great selection with my scallops and calamari.
Recommendation: 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch is drinking excellent at the moment with a great front and mid palate full of ripe berry and balanced acidity. While the finish was a bit disappointing it is on my restaurant order again list.
Prior to last night I have not tried nor heard of Emeritus Vineyards but we agreed to try something new. After some quick research I learned that Hallberg Ranch is located in the Russian River Valley and is the estate vineyard of Emeritus. Based on my recent good fortunes with 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot's, I selected the 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch.
The 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch did not disappoint. The front palate had a mix of ripe raspberry and blackberry flavors coated with coffee grinds. The ripe berry flavors continued boldly through the mid palate held by the firm structure and balanced acidity. The finish is bit shorter than expected and I was hoping for a bit more complexity.
Overall a great selection with my scallops and calamari.
Recommendation: 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch is drinking excellent at the moment with a great front and mid palate full of ripe berry and balanced acidity. While the finish was a bit disappointing it is on my restaurant order again list.
Wednesday, April 3, 2013
The Cost of Drinking Local
In his latest blog Harvey Steinman, when discussing local Colorado wine, states "...I have a tough time justifying the prices asked for the drinkable but not exceptional wines I have tried" (to read the full article http://www.winespectator.com/blogs/show/id/48239)
What is the cost of drinking local? In Pennsylvania, specifically the greater Philadelphia region, there are two types of wineries, those who produce sweeter style hybrid wines and those who focus on traditional varietals. Around the greater Philadelphia area there are two wineries that standout for their quality, Penns Woods Winery and Va La Vineyards. Penns Woods focuses on Merlot, Cabernet and a Red Blend. Va La's red wines focus on Italian varietal blends. Both are gems in the local wine community. Both use at least some new French oak which has a high overhead.
I will visit each tasting room this spring and provide reviews of their wines in future posts.
But...
Both wineries charge a premium price for their wines ($25-$50 on average). For Penns Woods the challenge with Bordeaux varietals in the 25-50 range, the price to quality ratio of California (Napa, Sonoma, Paso) is tough to match. Plus the selection at the PA Wine and Spirits for California Cabernet and Merlot is extensive not to mention the deals and 90 point rating signs.
Va La offers unique blends that you will not find at any local wine shop but the price point is what many may consider high (the new 2009 Seed retails at $45). For many people it is often difficult to 'judge' a wine if they have no frame of reference or a wine to compare against. This can work in favor of the winery or against it.
Va La offers local cheeses and chocolates paired with their wine for an educational and enjoyable tasting. Penns Woods has an intimate tasting room and has offered the chance to be part of a harvest in past vintages. Both offering are invaluable experiences for the local wine drinker. Wine is much more than opening a Cult Cab or a First Growth Bordeaux and both wineries offer opportunity to expand your horizons.
The cost of these bottle may be high and they may never score 100 points from Spectator or Advocate but if we continue to push the farm to table movement we should also support the local wine movement especially when wineries are making a serious effort to craft serious wine.
Do you support local wineries?
What is the cost of drinking local? In Pennsylvania, specifically the greater Philadelphia region, there are two types of wineries, those who produce sweeter style hybrid wines and those who focus on traditional varietals. Around the greater Philadelphia area there are two wineries that standout for their quality, Penns Woods Winery and Va La Vineyards. Penns Woods focuses on Merlot, Cabernet and a Red Blend. Va La's red wines focus on Italian varietal blends. Both are gems in the local wine community. Both use at least some new French oak which has a high overhead.
I will visit each tasting room this spring and provide reviews of their wines in future posts.
But...
Both wineries charge a premium price for their wines ($25-$50 on average). For Penns Woods the challenge with Bordeaux varietals in the 25-50 range, the price to quality ratio of California (Napa, Sonoma, Paso) is tough to match. Plus the selection at the PA Wine and Spirits for California Cabernet and Merlot is extensive not to mention the deals and 90 point rating signs.
Va La offers unique blends that you will not find at any local wine shop but the price point is what many may consider high (the new 2009 Seed retails at $45). For many people it is often difficult to 'judge' a wine if they have no frame of reference or a wine to compare against. This can work in favor of the winery or against it.
Va La offers local cheeses and chocolates paired with their wine for an educational and enjoyable tasting. Penns Woods has an intimate tasting room and has offered the chance to be part of a harvest in past vintages. Both offering are invaluable experiences for the local wine drinker. Wine is much more than opening a Cult Cab or a First Growth Bordeaux and both wineries offer opportunity to expand your horizons.
The cost of these bottle may be high and they may never score 100 points from Spectator or Advocate but if we continue to push the farm to table movement we should also support the local wine movement especially when wineries are making a serious effort to craft serious wine.
Do you support local wineries?
Tuesday, April 2, 2013
"A.B.C."
"A.B.C." - Anything but Chardonnay is a common expression I hear from many in the wine community. The days of the buttery, fruit forward style of Chardonnay are supposedly gone (not true). And that days of Chardonnay as the dominant white grape was also on the horizon (also not true).
But have you replaced Chardonnay as the white wine in your house or cellar. In my cellar the only Chardonnay that exists are those from my Long Island wine clubs and even those bottles number fewer than 5 or 6. The majority of white wine in my cellar is now Sauvignon Blanc, mostly Girard and Kathryn Hall (oaked).
I have also ventured past sauvignon blanc to other white wines. By far my favorite white grape is viognier. Darioush, to me, is the benchmark for all viognier's. It has a floral bouquet, grapefruit/melon front palate, proper acidity and the mouth feel of a red wine. I have searched far and wide for other viognier's that compare and have yet to find many, actually most I have found are disappointing. The most promising viognier's have come from the Willamette Valley, specifically Penner-Ash.
Speaking of Oregon their version of Pinot Gris is outstanding and is worth the exploration. I started with Lange Estate in Dundee as a staple but also enjoyed the Pinot Gris from St. Innocent and Cristom in Eola-Amity.
Closer to home alternative whites that standout is Va La Vineyards 'La Prima Donna' which is worth the trip to Avondale. It is a white blend of mostly grapes you have probably never heard of besides Pinot Grigio. There is always a bottle in my cellar. This wine could be considered an East Coast cult wine.
Moving further into the direction of alternative is Albarino. The grape is native to Spain's Rias Baixas region and if you are a regular of the PA Wine and Spirits store you could of certainly seen these wines on display. It makes a crisp refreshing wine that has a good deal of complexity. Long Island has seen an increase of planting Albarino and I would recommend to track down Palmer Vineyards version of this grape (in 500ml bottles). I have at least three more in my cellar to see how they age.
Any what about Riesling? I will treat Riesling as a subspecies that will be covered in a future post.
What 'other' white wine grapes do you have in your cellar?
But have you replaced Chardonnay as the white wine in your house or cellar. In my cellar the only Chardonnay that exists are those from my Long Island wine clubs and even those bottles number fewer than 5 or 6. The majority of white wine in my cellar is now Sauvignon Blanc, mostly Girard and Kathryn Hall (oaked).
I have also ventured past sauvignon blanc to other white wines. By far my favorite white grape is viognier. Darioush, to me, is the benchmark for all viognier's. It has a floral bouquet, grapefruit/melon front palate, proper acidity and the mouth feel of a red wine. I have searched far and wide for other viognier's that compare and have yet to find many, actually most I have found are disappointing. The most promising viognier's have come from the Willamette Valley, specifically Penner-Ash.
Speaking of Oregon their version of Pinot Gris is outstanding and is worth the exploration. I started with Lange Estate in Dundee as a staple but also enjoyed the Pinot Gris from St. Innocent and Cristom in Eola-Amity.
Closer to home alternative whites that standout is Va La Vineyards 'La Prima Donna' which is worth the trip to Avondale. It is a white blend of mostly grapes you have probably never heard of besides Pinot Grigio. There is always a bottle in my cellar. This wine could be considered an East Coast cult wine.
Moving further into the direction of alternative is Albarino. The grape is native to Spain's Rias Baixas region and if you are a regular of the PA Wine and Spirits store you could of certainly seen these wines on display. It makes a crisp refreshing wine that has a good deal of complexity. Long Island has seen an increase of planting Albarino and I would recommend to track down Palmer Vineyards version of this grape (in 500ml bottles). I have at least three more in my cellar to see how they age.
Any what about Riesling? I will treat Riesling as a subspecies that will be covered in a future post.
What 'other' white wine grapes do you have in your cellar?
Monday, April 1, 2013
Twist-Off
I was recently in Atlanta at a restaurant for brunch where we ordered a bottle of Champagne. The bottle came wrapped in foil but once the foil was removed there was not a cork to pop but a twist-off cap. It is the first time I have seen a sparkling wine of any kind use a twist-off cap. The wine was a bit on the sweet side but the majority of our table was using the Champagne for Mimosa's.
Wine Spectator stated the following:
"According to our statistics based on wines reviewed in 2012 by Wine Spectator editors, 91 percent of New Zealand's wines were bottled under twist-off, followed by Australia (67 percent), Oregon (23 percent), Argentina (14 percent), Washington (12 percent) and California (8 percent).
By comparison, only 6 percent of Spanish wines reviewed by us in 2012 had twist-offs, followed by France, with 3 percent, and Italy, with only 2 percent."
Despite my shock about the the twist-off the Champagne was mostly being used as a mixer and of course jokes about twist off's followed from the table.
These type of incidents continue to slow down the traction that serious wines in twist-off's are trying to achieve. Any regular follower of New Zealand expects all their wines, even the high end, to have a twist off. And I am seeing more and more white wines from Napa, especially Sav Blanc, come in twist-off. The quality of wine these days can no longer be judged solely on what covers the bottle.
White wine and New Zealand aside, how do we feel about our red wines using twist-off instead of cork. Some would argue that their is a certain romance to uncorking a bottle. Others argue that it is what is inside the bottle that counts and too many wines have cork taint. Natural cork is a renewable resource and no one has calculated the impact to the environment of millions of twist-off's.
In certain cases drinking wine is much deeper than what is inside the bottle. The wine, much like a winery tour, is all about the feelings, memory and emotions that the wine triggers. From the time you cork the wine, to the decanting period, to finally sharing the wine it all builds in our mind and soul. I want my vintage Champange to "pop" or to focus on uncorking an older bottle. It builds the anticipation and the romance.
Too many experiences these days are instant gratification, enjoying your finest red, white and Champagne should not be one of them.
Where do you stand?
Wine Spectator stated the following:
"According to our statistics based on wines reviewed in 2012 by Wine Spectator editors, 91 percent of New Zealand's wines were bottled under twist-off, followed by Australia (67 percent), Oregon (23 percent), Argentina (14 percent), Washington (12 percent) and California (8 percent).
By comparison, only 6 percent of Spanish wines reviewed by us in 2012 had twist-offs, followed by France, with 3 percent, and Italy, with only 2 percent."
Despite my shock about the the twist-off the Champagne was mostly being used as a mixer and of course jokes about twist off's followed from the table.
These type of incidents continue to slow down the traction that serious wines in twist-off's are trying to achieve. Any regular follower of New Zealand expects all their wines, even the high end, to have a twist off. And I am seeing more and more white wines from Napa, especially Sav Blanc, come in twist-off. The quality of wine these days can no longer be judged solely on what covers the bottle.
White wine and New Zealand aside, how do we feel about our red wines using twist-off instead of cork. Some would argue that their is a certain romance to uncorking a bottle. Others argue that it is what is inside the bottle that counts and too many wines have cork taint. Natural cork is a renewable resource and no one has calculated the impact to the environment of millions of twist-off's.
In certain cases drinking wine is much deeper than what is inside the bottle. The wine, much like a winery tour, is all about the feelings, memory and emotions that the wine triggers. From the time you cork the wine, to the decanting period, to finally sharing the wine it all builds in our mind and soul. I want my vintage Champange to "pop" or to focus on uncorking an older bottle. It builds the anticipation and the romance.
Too many experiences these days are instant gratification, enjoying your finest red, white and Champagne should not be one of them.
Where do you stand?
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