2011 Blueline Estate Merlot

Hourglass Vineyards bottles two wines, a 100% estate from Blueline and Hourglass Vineyard Cabernet. The Blueline vineyard is located just south of Calistoga. The 2011 Blueline Estate Merlot is 77% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot aged 16 months in 40% new oak. 2011 was a very challenging year for the Napa Valley as the weather was extremely cool.

The initial front palate has notes of allspice and cinnamon with a rounded tannin. The mid palate shows flavors of vanilla cherry cola and firm acidity. The mid palate has good minerality but is a bit overwhelmed by a jamminess quality reminiscent of a cool weather zinfandel. The finish has notes of coffee and chocolate supported by well balanced tannin.

I appreciate Hourglass and their continued attempt to push a standalone Merlot. The positives of this Merlot are outweighed by the jamminess that leaves the wine a touch fruitier than drier. But still a solid offering from a top flight winery in a tough year.

2011 Blueline Estate Merlot is $75 and only available on the mailing list. For fans of Merlot it is worth to invest in two bottles to compare.

The Hilt Pinot Noir

The Hilt Winery, a sister winery to Jonata and Screaming Eagle, produces two Pinot Noir's and a Chardonnay. The two Pinot Noirs are the Vanguard and the Old Guard. The Vanguard Pinot Noir showcases the more fruit-forward (e.g. "new world")side of the Santa Barbara AVA vineyard sites while the Old Guard highlights the nuances and earthiness of a few select barrels of 40 year old vines.

As a fan of the more fruit forward style of Pinot Noir I selected a bottle of 2010 The Hilt Vanguard Pinot Noir Santa Barbara. A powerful Pinot Noir the front palate gives hints of dark berries, cocoa nibs and dark chocolate notes. The tannin are ever present. This is a big Pinot Noir but not in a negative way. Despite the size of this wine it maintains incredible balance. The mid palate brings notes of allspice and fruit supported by acidity. The tannin carry the notes through to the finish. The finish is medium-long and provides lasting mouthfeel.

2010 Hilt Vanguard, Pinot Noir is $45 from the mailing list which rates very high on the price to quality ratio scale. While this is an extremely big and bold Pinot Noir it is a must try for any fan of California fruit forward Pinot Noir (albeit on metaphorical steroids).

Walt Wines - 2011

Walt Wines is the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay sister of Hall Wines. Hall Wines purchased Roessler Cellars and renamed it Walt Wines while taking over the entire production and wine making. They source grapes from vineyards in Anderson Valley, the Sonoma Coast, Sta. Rita Hills and Willamette Valley.

Today I tasted the 2011 WALT "Rita's Crown" Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir. The Rita’s Crown Vineyard is one of three single vineyard Pinot Noir's that are made from the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Based on Wine Spectator's ratings this wine scored 90 points on the 100 point scale. James Laube recommended a 2014-2022 drink window but I decided to try one bottle in its youth. The front palate has an interesting mix of organic beef jerky, raspberry and a hint of effervescence. The mid palate has firm tannin which hides the dark cherry, cola and earth notes. The finish is long and coats the entire palate.

Recommendation - A very complex wine which shows many different layers. This wine could benefit from another two-three years in the cellar to let those primary notes overshadow the tannin on the mid palate. Buy a few bottles to store in your cellar. - Retail $60.

From My Cellar - 07/30/2014

Kosta Browne is one of the elite producers of Pinot Noir. They make three Pinots from Sonoma Coast, Russian River and the Santa Lucia Highlands. Tonight I opened the 1 of 2 bottles of 2011 Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir that I was allocated as a first time wine list member (wait time - almost 4 years). The Sonoma Coast Pinot is sourced from three vineyards; Walala, Gap's Crown and Terra de Promissio.

The initial front palate is full of ripe Oregon fruit (blueberry, blackberry, raspberry). While fruit forward the front palate is balanced and complex. The fruit is carried to the mid palate with firm but soft tannin. The mid palate explodes with flavors of black cherry with the smallest hint of vanilla. The tannin carry the extremely long and complex finish. All the fruit notes become much more subtle as the long finish engages all the taste buds.

Burgundy snobs may stick up their nose at the "lack of finesse" but this wine expresses its terroir which includes abundant sun. A well balanced wine that carries fruit notes, well integrated tannin' complexity and a long finish.

Recommendation- A must have for any fan of California Pinot Noir. The price point is excellent for the quality. The only drawback is the wait time on the wait list

From My Cellar 07/28/2013

Hall Wines is one of the premier producers of Cabernet in the Napa Valley. Their offerings include many single vineyard sources from Stags Leap, St. Helena, Diamond Mountain, Mt. Veeder and famous blends such as Kathryn Hall and Jack's Masterpiece.

The 2009 HALL Bergfeld St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% sourced from the Bergfeld vineyard which was originally planted in 1859 and now the home to one of Hall's tasting rooms.

The first trait of the wine is revealed when it is poured into the decanter. As with most other Hall Cabernet's the wine is a deep purple. The front palate has notes of red fruit and a subtle notes of Maui sugar cane. The red berry and slights hints of oak are joined by velvet tannin's at the mid palate. The soft and velvet tannin's carry the finish to an extended length that coats the entire mouth giving added layers of complexity.

The 2009 HALL Bergfeld St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon retails for $100 and can be enjoyed now but has the structure to lay in the cellar for another decade. I recommend to buy two, one to drink and one to hold.

What I Drank 07/16/2013

RN74 is a Wine Spectator Grand Award Winner with a wine list as thick as an Atlas. RN74 is self described as "...San Francisco urban wine bar and restaurant by Michael Mina, Rajat Parr and Adam Sobel featuring modern interpretations of refined American and regional French cuisine with an extensive wine list highlighting the Burgundy region of France."

The wine list has the usual list of heavy hitters from Napa, Bordeaux and Burgundy. The group decided on a Pinot Noir and I was delegated the task of picking the bottle.

I settled on 2011 CERITAS "COSTALINA" SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR. Costalina is sourced from two vineyards near Occidental which is western Sonoma Coast.

Sonoma Pinot Noir tends to fall into one of two categories, either fruit forward or 'nuanced'. The 2011 CERITAS "COSTALINA" has the best features of both categories. The wine is elegant, complex and long on the palate. The initial palate has subtle notes of Christmas spices and light raspberry flavors. What differentiates this wine from many others is the elegance and balance in which the spice notes and fruit hit the palate. With fears of being redundant this wine is the epitome of balanced. The mid palate has firm structure that holds the spice notes without over-powering the palate. The finish is long, complex and coats all parts of the tongue.

Recommendation- The 2011 CERITAS "COSTALINA" SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR is truly perfectly made with fruit notes, earth notes, acidity and tannin all in perfect balance. The wine is truly unique is the fact that it straddles the fruit forward and balanced category without falling into either one. A must try!

$42 from the website, $102 at RN74.

Airport Part 2

After my uneventful tasting flight I decided to upgrade to a full glass rather than attempt another tasting.

I settled on the 2009 Long Shadows Feather which is a Washington Cabernet made by Napa Valley veteran Randy Dunn.
The front palate explodes with earth, currant and tabacco flavors. Well integrated tannin pull the earth notes and raspberry flavors to the mid palate. Th mid palate has a complex dryness which is unique.
The finish is long, complex and strong. The dark fruits and tannin coat the entire mouth adding to the 'bigness' of the wine.

This is a great representation of Washington Cabernet and the top shelf wines that can created from top vineyards.

Airport Flight

Early for my flight in Seattle I had time to stop into Vino Volo to sample a flight called 'beyond Bordeaux'. These types of flights are always interesting as it typically removes me from my comfort zone.

The first wine was Hence Cellars 2009 Petit Verdot. The wine was deep purple. The front palate gives notes of blackberry but does not much else in the way mid palate or finish. The wine was uninspiring in many aspects that offered so sense of place or purpose.

The second wine was the 2010 Bodega Amalaya Gran Cortex Malbec. The wine had notes of blueberry on the nose prior to the first sip which was rewarding. The issue front palate is a mixture of blueberry and blackberry with a touch of sweetness.
The mid palate gives way to slight vanilla with a touch of structure. The finish is mid length, more vanilla spice but with limited complexity.

The final wine of the flight was the 2011 Tamarack Celllars Cabernet Franc. The front palate has boisenberry and blueberry notes typical of Washington wines I have had from the Columbia Valley. The mid palate has firm tannin and slight apricot notes balances by light oak. The finish is mid length that coats the tongue and offers subtle complexity. Softer tannin would of helped showcase the fruit notes of the wine

The flight was diverse but I found all the wines uninspiring.

Scarecrow's little brother

Powerful, elegant, structure, depth and complexity are all words to describe the 2009 M. Etain.

The M. Etain is the second label from Scarecrow which has become a cult phenomenon only behind Screaming Eagle and Harlan.

The 2009 M. Etain scored 93 points from Wine Spectator.

The wine was decanted 3 hours before the first glass was poured. The color is a deep opaque purple.

The front palate has firm structure with dark fruit notes. The mid palate gives way to well pronounced tannin, slight chocolate and hints of raspberry. The finish is extremely long and seems to hit every layer of the tongue. There is also a slight hint of vanilla with the finish.

This may be the top wine consumed of 2013 for this reviewer.

Recommendation- M. Etain is only available via the wine list and currently via the secondary market. The initial list price is $125 and it is worth the price for that special occasion. A remarkable wine from an amazing producer.

National Chardonnay Day - May 23rd 2013

May 23rd is national Chardonnay Day. Chardonnay, for all the naysayers, is still the number one wine varietal in the US in terms of acres planted and market share. Due to the large amount of Chardonnay produced there is bound to be poorly made wines. Over-ripe, over-oaked and buttery Chardonnay's are common to every wine region in the country I have visited. But there are many wineries that still select from ideal vineyards to produce a complex wine worthy of the your cellar.

One of my favorite produces of Chardonnay is Fantesca Estate located on Spring Mountain. They source their Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley and is made by Heidi Barrett. As far as I am aware this is the only Chardonnay that Heidi makes in the Valley.

The 2011 Fantesca Chardonnay is a signature Chardonnay. It is medium bodied, not over powering but extremely complex and shows remarkable depth. Apple and melon notes greet the front palate. The mid palate shows a slight hint of oak but is well balanced with the acid and fruit. The mid palate into finish shows light to medium minerality which keep the wine from being over powering.

A perfect wine to pair with seafood and lighter meat proteins.

Recommendation - 2011 Fantesca Chardonnay is a true expression of remarkable Chardonnay that can be made from the Russian River Valley but the price is a bit high ($75). Well worth a few bottles to keep for special warm weather celebrations.

Roanoke Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2009

Roanoke Vineyards makes two Cabernet Franc, the cult-like Gabby's and the 'normal' Roanoke Vineyards Cabernet Franc. The 2009 Roanoke Vineyards Cabernet Franc is 83% Cabernet Franc and 17% Merlot. The first notes in the front palate are of cherry-cola. The Cabernet Franc has firm structure with hints of earth and tobacco. The firm mid palate guides the black and red fruit into a long finish.

Recommendation - Roanoke continually proves why they are some of the best producers on the North Fork and the Roanoke Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2009 is another example.

What I Drank - 05/22/13

My first choice from last night's wine list was the 2010 HAMILTON RUSSELL Pinot Noir Hemel-en-Aarde Valley but unfortunately it was sold out. After getting over my disappointment and with the waiter waiting for my second selection I decided on the 2010 Leviathan.

Leviathan is made by Andy Erickson and is considered a California Table wine consisting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. This wine has a very firm/tight structure with dark red fruit notes in the front palate. The tannin's are prevalent but are softened by the touches of Syrah. If you focus on the wine it is possible to note each of the varietals yet they are blended in perfect harmony to make a complete wine. Leviathan was a straight forward (easy drinking) yet complex wine that had a long finish. Leviathan never disappoints and at the price point ($43) is an excellent offering highlighting the blending skills of Andy Erickson.

The second wine for dinner was a 375ml bottle of 2008 RUBICON ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Cask which perfectly blended dark fruit, firm structure with a touch of oak. The mid palate and finish had a dry mouth feel complimented with mocha and cherry. The finish was a bit underwhelming due to the mid length finish but overall a perfect wine for the meat entrees.

For dessert chocolate and cake was skipped in favor of Dolce. The 2007 Dolce is the blueprint for late harvest wine. The complex fruit notes of honey, melon and pineapple give way to a decadent structure. The wine manages all this without any of the syrupy flavors or mouth feel of many other dessert wines.

I would recommend each of these wines.

Corkage Fee - Non BYO Restaurants

I enjoy BYOB restaurants as it allows the consumer to decide what they want to drink and/or bring a special bottle (or any bottle) for standard retail price.

But what about restaurants that have a wine list but have a corkage fee. Is it worth it? What is too much to charge? And what does the corkage fee get you?

I was at a famous steakhouse celebrating a friends impending nuptials and wanted to bring some special bottles. The restaurant, which has a large wine list, had two rules. First corkage was $30/bottle (no limit) and second the bottle could not be on the wine list. The second rule I find very fair. The $30 was a bit high but the service provided put my mind at ease. There was a lighter Syrah and two younger California Cabernet's. The waiter immediately brought out two decanters for the Cabernet. The lighter Syrah was immediately poured as the waiter knew the order of wine without having to ask. Each bottle received a new clean glass with the appropriate stemware. Decanter's, appropriate stemware and a knowledgeable staff justified the $30 corkage fee.

Other restaurants have stricter policies including for every bottle brought from the outside a bottle needs to be purchased from the restaurants wine list.

I always prefer to bring my own bottles if possible. How do you feel about corkage fee's.

From my cellar - 5/16/2013

Sojourn Cellars has become one of the premier wineries for Pinot Noir. They source grapes from highly celebrated vineyards in Sonoma and RRV including Sangiacomo, Rodgers Creek, Wohler, Alder Springs and Ridgetop. One of my favorite vineyards for Pinot Noir is Gap's Crown.

Gap's Crown is situated directly east of and overlooks the Sangiacomo Vineyard at an elevation of 300-800 feet above sea level. From the vineyard description "This is an extremely rocky, well-draining site with northwestern exposure, which consistently produces powerful, concentrated Pinot noirs in a New World-style. Its proximity to the Petaluma Gap, from which its name is derived, effectively moderates temperature during warm spells in the summer and fall and enables the crop to hang into late September and October in most vintages."

The 2011 Gap's Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir is a rich California Pinot Noir. The front palate has great structure, complexity with abundant red and dark berry fruit notes. The mid palate transitions the same structure and fruit notes with a slight hint of vanilla at the very back of the tongue. The finish is long and complex with red fruit and chocolate coating the mid part of the tongue and the structure coating the entire mouth.

Recommendation - This is a flagship wine for California Pinot Noir. The Pinot can stand up to meats yet it is still subtle enough for white fish and chicken. But this is a wine that can truly be appreciated by itself. At $59 this is a must have for any lover of fruit forward style Pinot Noir.

Happy Mother's Day

We at the PA Wine Report would like to wish all Mom's a Happy Mother's Day.

From my cellar - May 10th 2013

Volnay has a special place in my heart. As I was getting into wine I was introduced to Volnay through a friend of a friend. It was the first wine that I tasted that provided a sense of place. With the weather in the mid 80's today I decided to grab a Pinot Noir and I decided to open a 2009 Maison Roche de Bellene Volnay Taille Pieds. Taille Pieds is classified as a premier cru. Taille Pieds is known for its lighter complex Pinot Noirs.

The 2009 Maison Roche de Bellene Volnay Taille Pieds is much darker than expected and provides much more intense flavors than in previous years. The front palate has light effervescence which gives way cherry and subtle holiday spice notes. The mid plate palate has firm structure, light tannin, root beer and cola flavors. The best part of this is the finish. The finish has great length and a myriad of complex flavors.

Recommendation: The 2009 Maison Roche de Bellene Volnay Taille Pieds is a bit more intense in flavor than previous vintages and is reminiscent of a New World wine. The sense of place and restraint that I love of Volnay takes a back seat. I attribute this to one of the great things about Volnay which is vintage variation. This is a wonderfully complex Pinot Noir and should cellar for another decade (price $100+)/

From my cellar - May 5th 2013

I have decided to use the section 'What I drank' to document wines I explore outside my house. For wines I try inside the house a new section 'From my cellar' will be used.

For the first edition of 'From my cellar' I opened a 2008 Fantesca Cabernet from Spring Mountain. The owners of Fantesca, Duane and Susan Hoff, are wonderful people who open their cellar and home to wine club members a few times a year for intimate events. The last event we attended, hands on harvest, had use picking grapes from a designated row followed by a push down and lunch on their deck. They are amazing people and it shows in their wine. They have three offerings, a RRV Pinot, a Chardonnay and a Cabernet. Both the Chardonnay and Cabernet are made by Heidi Barrett who is one of the resident rock-star winemakers of Napa Valley.

To celebrate breaking my personal record in the Broad Street Run I opened the 2008 Fantesca Cabernet which is estate fruit from their Spring Mountain vineyard. The wine is a beautiful deep purple when poured. The 2008 is restrained, refined and elegant. The front palate has dark fruit and nice structure. The structure carries well into the mid palate with hints of chocolate. The finish coats the entire mouth and is medium in length. This is an approachable wine now but I feel it will continue to evolve over the next 3-6 years. This wine would pair very well with red meat as the structure can hold up to any 'big' food.

Recommendation: A big bold well structured wine that shows great finesse and restraint. It is a beautiful wine that showcases what Spring Mountain fruit can deliver. A must have for the cellar ($120).

What I Drank 05/03/2013

Albarino is a white varietal which was made famous from the Spanish Rias Baixas. Albarino shows a lot of promise of the North Fork of Long Island and one of the leading produces has to be Palmer Vineyards. The 2010 Palmer Albarino (500ml Bottle) has a slight golden color in the glass.

The wine shows bright acidity with pineapple and melon notes. The mid palate continues to show strong acidity and grapefruit and cantaloupe flavors. The finish has good length and mid complexity. After three years this wine is still showing strong.

This wine is a great alternative to Chardonnay and Sav Blanc in the summer months. I highly recommend buying some bottles of Palmer Albarino.

PA Liquor Privatization - Continued

Tuesday's hearings in Harrisburg regarding the privatization of the state PA wine and spirits stores took an interesting turn, and not for the better.

The testifiers ignored the economic benefits and the fact that the majority of other states have the same rules when claiming that "...access to alcohol in general – who blasted the bill as a gateway to increasing a host of social ills, including increases in child abuse, teen pregnancies, car crashes, mental problems and alcohol abuse."

As philly.com reported "Others talked about the costs of more emergency room visits, higher divorce rates, more poverty, higher unemployment, more crime and children born out of wedlock."

Deb Beck, president of the Drug and Alcohol Service Providers Organization of Pennsylvania, which works with individuals struggling with substance and alcohol abuse. “If you increase access to a desired substance, you’re going to increase consumption. If you increase consumption, you’re going to increase alcohol-created problems.”

In conclusion having the choice between two private stores, based on inventory or cost, will cause you to lose your job and leave your spouse.

Who knew choosing between Bordeaux or Napa Cabernet in a private store could cause such ills.

What I drank 4/26/13

As the weather gets warmer I tend to gravitate towards Pinot and white wine. This Friday the choice was the HALL Sauvignon Blanc 2011. The Hall Sauvignon Blanc 2011 is a twist off which is proof that you cannot judge a wine on how it is sealed. HALL does twSauvignon Blancs, the HALL"T Bar T Ranch" Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc which uses neutral oak and the Hall Sauvignon Blanc which is all stainless steel.

The wine has grapefruit and apricot on the nose. The front palate has apricot and honeysuckle notes which coat the entire palate. The mid palate has well balanced acidity and strong apricot notes. The finish coats your tongue with light grapefruit and the honeysuckle returns.

This Sauvignon Blanc has depth and complexity. At $22 it is reasonably priced considering the complexity the wine delivers. A must try for Sauvignon Blanc lovers.

Agritourism

There is an old adage 'If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound'. We can adapt this adage to this wine business 'If a winery makes a great wine but no one visits to drink it does it still taste good'.

Recently I visited two distinct wineries, one that did not sell outside their mailing list and focused on the wine, essentially the wine lover has to come to them. The other winery focused on events to bring people to the winery and hope the people stay for the wine.

Making wine is a capital intensive process that requires the vintners to pay money upfront for hope of selling a product at some time in the future. As I drove home after the tastings I started to debate with myself about the merits of agritourism and the financial benefits that may drive this decision.

The clear advantages are that the winery makes money, stays in business and continues to make wine. The disadvantages are numerous, including drunk people, crowded tasting rooms with little personalized attention and the 'party' atmosphere.

Does the wine start to suffer if large amounts of effort and money go into planning events. Does this erode margins and profit which would of been used to improve the quality of future vintages. To offset the cost of an event the customers that attend need to purchase more than tastings. This brings into question if the event model has long term sustainability.

The boutique winery on the other hand has to focus all its efforts on making the best wine possible to bring customers to the winery. But word of mouth does take time yet once the winery is established the need for events becomes unnecessary as the wine quality sells itself.

As a patron I will always favor the boutique wineries. But when wine tasting on a nice day which do you prefer?

PA Wine Tasting - Part 3

Penns Wood has two tasting flights, the normal tasting menu and the reserve tasting menu. The normal tasting menu only had one red wine so I went with the reserve tasting ($15) to taste all three red wines that were offered. The red grapes comes from the estate vineyard as well as a vineyard in Coatesville.

The red wines are listed in the order I tasted them.

2004 Ameritage - This wine is a blend of five grape varietals including 4 bordeaux and nebbiolo. The front palate has tobacco, cedar and smoke notes. The mid palate has hints of Easter ham and good structure. The finish is European in style with light structure and strong earth flavor. Retail $35.

2004 Reserve Ameritage - Fuller bodied than the regular Amertiage, the front palate gives dark berry and chocolate notes. The mid palate shows more red fruit and the firm tannin. The tanning on the finish are soft but the finish is surprisingly uninspiring. Retail $45.

Merlot Reserve 2005 - The front palate of the Merlot has light cedar, tobacco and strawberry notes. The mid palate shows dried fruit and soft but pronounced tannin. The finish is middle length with firm tannin structure across the tongue. The style is reflective of an Old World style Merlot that would not be out of place in a French or Italian cafe. The best red wine of the flight. Retail $34.

Penns Wood's red wines are still showing strong after 8 and 9 years. The 2005 Reserve Merlot was showing subtle fruit and the secondary notes were pronounced. The Reserve Ameritage was lacking a complex finish which was disappointing. The blend of the Ameritage changes each year so it will be interesting to see how other blends do with time.

PA Wine Tasting - Part 2

Penns Wood Winery is tasting room and vineyard estate is located in Chadds Ford . The Penns Woods Winery is located in Eddystone, Pa directly across the street from the owners Wine Import Company. The tasting room has a private back room for tastings (and this month wine and cupcake pairings), a bar and plenty of outdoor seating. The wine offerings are extensive so I will break them up into two posts, one white and one red.

The white wine is listed in the order they were tasted.

Traminette 2012 - A new release from Penns Wood this wine is made from the hybrid grape traminette. The front palate has drizzled honey and sweet notes which carries into the the mid palate. The finish has a touch of acid and a light finish. A sweet wine that lacks complexity yet is very easy drinking for those warm days. Retail price $22.

Sauvignon Blanc 2011 - This is a stainless steel Sav Blanc that has pear notes with hints of apple. Medium acidity and a decent finish. A standard sav blanc but the it is hard to justify the price to quality ratio. Retail $28.

Banscroft Riesling 2012 - Banscroft is the second label from Penns Wood that represents the more approachable wines. The 2012 Riesling has green apple notes, decent acidity and touches of sweetness. Retail $19

Chardonnay Reserve 2011 - The front palate has notes of bright fruit but the mid palate and finish are over powered by the oak. The finish leaves a mouth feel of toasted oak. A very average chardonnay offering. Retail $22.

White Merlot 2012 - Light red fruit on the front palate. The mid palate has a touch of sweetness with subtle pineapple notes. The finish lacks complexity but this is an easy drinking wine. Retail $22. This wine was not as bottle aged so a few more months in bottle before opening may benefit the wine.

Banscroft Moscato - The front palate shows grapefruit and honeysuckle. The wine is not syrupy like many other sweet wines. The wine has a bright and natural sweetness at the finish. A great representation of a dessert style wine that does not taste like medicine. Retail $19.

Penns Wood a diverse offering of white wines with many being very approachable.

PA Wine Tasting Weekend - Part 1

The greater Philadelphia area has a small but strong wine region. One of the premier wine local wineries is Va La Vineyards, located in Avondale, PA. Va La sells all their wines directly from the tasting room.

The wine tasting at Va La is $20 and each wine is paired with a cheese. The wine flight consists on four wines which rotate based on wine availability. All wine that is available for tasting is available for purchase. What you will notice is that the majority of wines released are blends of Italian varietals. There is also a sprinkle of Bordeaux and other obscure vinifera in many of the wines. Each wine is unique which adds to the allure of this winery as you will not find these blends in the local wine store.

Below are my tasting notes in the order they were poured.

La Prima Donna 2010 - The 2009 and 2010 vintages have switched focus from earlier vintages. The main difference is the wine is now considered an 'orange wine' or vin orange meaning unlike typical white wines which have almost no skin contact this wine has extra contact with the skins giving the wine the orange color. The extra time on the skins gives the nose a beautiful bouquet of flowers. The wine is a blend of malvasia bianco, four clones of pinot grigio, tocai and petit manseng. Although the wine is predominately pinot grigio the other varietals add layers of complexity. The front palate is crisp and refreshing with melon flavors. The mid palate has melon flavors, subtle fennel notes and well balanced acidity. The finish mid length is dry with grapefruit notes. The price point for this wine is $40 but the quality matches the price. This is certainly one of the best white wines on all of the East Coast.

Silk 2009 - The Va La version of a dry rosato. This wine is a darker than the typical rose consists of barbera, corvina veronese, carmine, petit verdot and nebbiolo. The Silk is light in color and hits the front palate with subtle cherry flavors that are carried to the mid palate. The finish coats the mouth with Christmas spices notes. The Silk is darker and more complex than a typical rose and I would consider it more an alternative for lighter style Pinot Noir. The wine is priced $28 which aligns it with price point for Pinot Noir.

Seed 2009 - This is one of the few (and soon only) Va La wine that sourced from another vineyard. It is also one of the new, if not the only, wine that is a single varietal. The Seed is a small batch project made from a varietal (patent pending) that is a cross of the varieties carmine and cabernet franc. The 'special varietal' is grown and sourced from a vineyard in Coatesville. This was the only average to below average wine of the flight. The use of French and American Oak overpowered the grapes and my notes stated "typical over-oaked Bordeaux wine". The finish had vanilla notes but the ending was weak. At $45 the price to quality ratio is rather low but this wine does deserve a second chance in the future.

Mahogany 2009 - The Va La 'flagship' consisting of barbera, petit verdot, carmine, charbono, malvasia nero, teroldego,
lagrein and sagrantin. The initial front palate gives notes of cherry cola which are carried to the mid palate with firm structure and well integrated tannin. The finish carries subtle earth notes and the firm structure produces a long finish. This wine could certainly benefit from 5-7 years of aging to allow the tannin to give way to the secondary flavors. If you drink this wine early a long decanting period is necessary. At $45 this wine has an excellent price to quality ratio. The 2009 Mahagony is the red wine you should bring to anyone who doubts that the greater Philadelphia area cannot produce complex red wines.

Va La Vineyards is a must visit for all wine lovers. The family take their wines very seriously and it shows in each wine. The wine and local cheese pairing (and even local made chocolate) defines and celebrates the true localvoire movement.
And all for only $20 a person.

What I Drank 04/19/2013

2008 HALL "Kathryn Hall" Cabernet Sauvignon is the highest rated wine (based on Wine Spectator's 100 point scale) from Kathryn Hall scoring 96 points. This wine was part of the Hall Collectors Club 2011 September shipment (full disclosure - I am a Kathryn Hall Collectors Club member).

Based on all the praise I was very excited to experience this wine. I decanted the wine in a two hours prior to taking my first sip. The wine is 'signature' Kathryn Hall, dry, dark fruit and firm structure. This wine could benefit from another 5-10 years of aging as the wine is very tight, even after two hours of decanting.

The front palate has dark fruit and subtle notes of minerality. The dryness and firm structure brings dark fruit and a very slight hint of espresso grinds to the mid palate. The finish shows finesse but still coats the tongue to provide a long finish.

Recommendation - The "Kathyrn Hall" is the flagship wine and deserves much of the praise. This wine can be consumed now but it would be better to wait another 5 years. If opening now decant at least 2-4 hours.

What I Drank - 04/16/2013

I am normally a red wine drinker but today was the first mid 70 day and a red wine did not feel appropriate for the weather. Tonight I opened the 2011 Darioush Viognier. This is a full bodied white wine that would satisfy any red wine drinker.

The Darioush Viognier vineyard is located in the Oak Knoll appellation (actually right behind Bistro Don Giovanni).

The initial palate is summer fruit, honeydew and melon, but the mid palate gives way to subtle apricot notes. The wine has good acidity and firm structure similar to a lighter pinot noir. The wine coats the entire mouth and the structure brings the fruit notes and acidity to the finish. The finish is long in length and is characterized by the same apricot notes but in the back of the palate. The honeydew also returns as the finish coats the entire mouth.

Recommendation: This Viognier is the benchmark but which all other wines should be measured. This wine is a bit pricey ($41) but also very hard to find due to its popularity. A must try for any red wine drinkers who refuse or who have second thoughts drinking red wine.

***Editor's Note - I am a First Offering Member at Darioush including 6 bottles of Viognier a year***

Wine and Friends

Sunday evenings are generally a quiet time in our household. This particular Sunday was a beautiful spring day, one of the first in the Northeast. To celebrate the nice weather our friends decided to cook a leg of lamb and invited us over for Sunday dinner. Due to the weather I knew we would be outside on the deck so I grabbed two bottles of Pinot Noir and Sparkling Wine.

The wines were:
2008 Sparkling Pointe Brut
2011 Sojourn Cellars Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2010 Anaba Pinot Noir 2010 Sun Chase Vineyard Sonoma Coast

The 2011 Sojourn Cellars Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir was the perfect compliment for sitting outside. The bright fruits and firm structure allowed the wine to showcase itself without the accompaniment of food.

The Anaba with its earthiness and a touch of sweetness provided the perfect compliment to the leg of lamb and the acidity of the kale salad.

The point of wine is not just the wine itself. One of the great joys of any wine lover is the chance to share their collection with others especially close friends.

The light Pinot's and Sparkling wine were the perfect pairing for the beautiful weather, great conversation and excellent food.

Saturday Wine and the Masters

The Masters is truly an American tradition and in the mindset I decided to open the Del Dotto Ca'Nani 2010 Cabernet in American Oak. The Oak Barrel was carved and grooved by Alain Fouquet, who is a 4th generation cooper and one of the premier French coopers.

Ca'Nani is the name for the newest vineyard to be added to the Del Dotto legacy located in Oakville and has 8.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon. It will also be the site of their newest, and third, tasting room.

2010 Ca'Nani Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley is the lowest priced on their Cabernet ($45) but does not lack in quality and power.
The initial front palate shows cherry cola, raspberry and chocolate dust notes. The mid palate carries the dark fruit flavors and shows hints vanilla. The tannin structure is firm enough to handle the oak and the big fruit and at no time does the wine seem unbalanced. The finish coats the entire palate and continues for mid length.

The wine is what many would consider high octane Napa Valley; over 15% alcohol, large oak influence and bright fruit but this wine is not apologetic for what it is and manages perfect balance.

Recommendation - the quality to price ratio for this wine is excellent and it shows well after only 30 minutes of decanting. Del Dotto is top end producer at this price point this wine is an excellent Napa Valley 'value'. But if you prefer subtle wine this may not be for you.

***Editor's Note - this wine was bought from Del Dotto directly with no discount***

Tor Kenward Vertical Tasting

I enjoy vertical tastings. It allows the wine taster to gain perspective on how a certain winery handles different vintages or if they use techniques to minimize vintage variation.

I was first introduced to Tor Kenward wines at Ma(i)sonry Napa Valley. After a flight I went home and signed up for the mailing list. One of my first offers was a three year vertical tasting of the Cimarossa Vineyard Cabernet. I thought this was an excellent way to gain insight into the winery and its wines.

I waited two years after purchase prior to tasting.

When it came time to prepare for the vertical tasting I reached out to the winery (via email) to ask for guidance. Within 24 hours the winery owner Tor Kenward responded providing guidance and insight into each vintage. Unlike most larger wineries Tor Kenward is able to bottle with no manipulation/filtering or fining – and in small amounts, so each wine is truly hand made which allows for true vintage variation.

I decanted each wine for 2 hours and provided the tasting notes.


The wine of the vertical were
2005 Mast-Cimarossa Cabernet ($75) - this was the only vintage where Tor made a Mast-Cimarossa Cabernet
2006 Cimarossa Cabernet ($75)
2007 Cimarossa Cabernet ($75)

The Cimarossa Vineyard is located in Howell Mountain which is highly prized for its intense and complex fruit.

There were four people, including myself, tasting and each person ranked their favorites.

The consensus favorite was the 2006 Cimarossa. It had the longest finish and firmer tannin, along with concentrated dark fruit. This wine could age for another 5 years. The 2007 was the most approachable and the consensus number 2, although the one non-regular wine drinker had this as her favorite. The wine showed a red and dark fruits with well structured but not overpowering tanning. The 2005 had the most balance and restraint with hints of red berry, much different from the 2006.

Wine Spectator rated the Napa Valley vintages which identically matched the groups thoughts about each of the Tor Kenward wines.
2005 92 points and noted "best are elegant and balanced"
2006 95 points and noted "A late, cool harvest produced dense, concentrated, structured and ageworthy wines"
2007 97 points and noted "amazing wines defined by enormous complexity and plush tannins"

Recommendation: A great vertical tasting that puts to rest the idea that Napa Cabernet's do not have true vintage variation. All three Cabernet's scored over 90 points and despite all the vineyard variation the consistent theme was well made and well structured wines. A must try.

In Defense of Merlot

"I am not drinking f****** Merlot!" This single quote from 2004 is sited by many to be the decline of Merlot in the United States. This is despite the fact that the prized bottle was 1961 Château Cheval Blanc which is a Cabernet Franc / Merlot Blend.

Merlot, much like any other popular varietal, can suffer from wineries that do not show it the utmost care and do not plant it in the ideal spots.

In the past years I have become a very big fan of Merlot (or as my friend Dave tells winemaker's "good Merlot"). At recent tastings at Cardinale and Jarvis, the W.S. Keyes and 2009 Merlot respectively, were both the highlights of my tasting flight. Others in Napa Valley (including Darioush, Pride, Hourglass, Realm) produce world class Merlot that show integrated tannin, show dark fruits and a long smooth finish. While each has its own distinct style each of these wineries make Merlot that would convert any naysayer.

Wine Spectator has rated 57 wines from the 2008-2010 vintages 90 points or higher and all but two retail for under $100. Almost 40% of those with a 90 rating (from Napa alone) retail for under $50. The price quality ratio for "good Merlot" is much better than that of Napa Cabernet.

Broadening our search in the same vintages 2008-2010 Washington state had 85 Merlot's rated 90 points or higher under $50 out of 95 total Merlot's rated 90 points or above.

On the east coast the defining varietal for Long Island and there are many strong producers.

With so many options available those who have abandoned Merlot should return. You will not be disappointed!

Disappointment in the cellar

Yesterday I opened a wine with some age (8 years) which I had looked forward to drinking since its purchase some years ago. It was a California Cabernet from a well known producer which I visited on one of my trips to Napa Valley. My hope for the wine was that the tannin and fruit would have subsided, but not disappeared, allowing secondary notes of earth, tobacco and any other surprises to appear.

After popping the cork the first thing I do with an aged wine is immediately smell for cork taint. After passing the first test I poured it into the glass and took a sip. The wine still had fruit notes but something was off. Within a few sips I realized the wine was flat. It was not corked or ruined it just did not have any life left in the wine. It was tired, flat or any other adjective that comes to mind.

I have read that wines can go into a transition period in the cellar. During this transition period that wine goes into a sort of hibernation where it does not show itself in prominence while it develops those secondary notes.

I am hoping this is the case with this wine and since I have three bottles left in the cellar I will try again on the vintages tenth birthday.

A disappointing Saturday night.

Friday Night 04/05/2013

Girard Winery is one of my staples for great Cabernet. I have been a wine club member since 2006 switching from general wine club to cabernet only wine club in 2010. Tonight I decided to open one of my latest shipments from Girard which is the 2010 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon.

As described by the winery: "...this Cabernet Sauvignon is normally blended into our signature red blend, the ‘Artistry’." The Artistry is one of their flag ship wines so I was excited to try this Cabernet. The Composition is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, .7% Cabernet Franc, .3% Malbec

This wine can be summarized in one word; velvet. The wine coats your mouth from the initial taste, continues through the mid palate and the finish lasts over 25 seconds. The tannins are structured but not overpowering and hold the silk taste through the entire sip. The smoothness is accompanied by rich, almost dessert flavors, think caramel covered red fruit.

The Oakville Cabernet is a nice change from their mountain fruit Cabernet's (Mt. Veeder, Diamond Mt., Atlas Peak) due to the integrated tannin.

Recommendation- a great representation of an Oakville Cabernet. Normally 'easy-drinking' denotes 'not good' but in this case it is a decadent wine that invokes all the taste buds.

The price to quality ratio for this wine is excellent. $50 from the website, $40 for wine club members.

Editors' Note - I paid wine club price for these wines.

What I Drank 04/03/2013

Purchasing wine when out a restaurant can be a daunting task. Price gouging is the number one issue on my mind. The restaurant I was at last night was selling for double retail price which I find acceptable ($47 retail, $84 on the wine list). I found this even more acceptable as we presented with Pinot Noir glasses once we ordered.

Prior to last night I have not tried nor heard of Emeritus Vineyards but we agreed to try something new. After some quick research I learned that Hallberg Ranch is located in the Russian River Valley and is the estate vineyard of Emeritus. Based on my recent good fortunes with 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot's, I selected the 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch.

The 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch did not disappoint. The front palate had a mix of ripe raspberry and blackberry flavors coated with coffee grinds. The ripe berry flavors continued boldly through the mid palate held by the firm structure and balanced acidity. The finish is bit shorter than expected and I was hoping for a bit more complexity.

Overall a great selection with my scallops and calamari.

Recommendation: 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch is drinking excellent at the moment with a great front and mid palate full of ripe berry and balanced acidity. While the finish was a bit disappointing it is on my restaurant order again list.

The Cost of Drinking Local

In his latest blog Harvey Steinman, when discussing local Colorado wine, states "...I have a tough time justifying the prices asked for the drinkable but not exceptional wines I have tried" (to read the full article http://www.winespectator.com/blogs/show/id/48239)

What is the cost of drinking local? In Pennsylvania, specifically the greater Philadelphia region, there are two types of wineries, those who produce sweeter style hybrid wines and those who focus on traditional varietals. Around the greater Philadelphia area there are two wineries that standout for their quality, Penns Woods Winery and Va La Vineyards. Penns Woods focuses on Merlot, Cabernet and a Red Blend. Va La's red wines focus on Italian varietal blends. Both are gems in the local wine community. Both use at least some new French oak which has a high overhead.

I will visit each tasting room this spring and provide reviews of their wines in future posts.

But...

Both wineries charge a premium price for their wines ($25-$50 on average). For Penns Woods the challenge with Bordeaux varietals in the 25-50 range, the price to quality ratio of California (Napa, Sonoma, Paso) is tough to match. Plus the selection at the PA Wine and Spirits for California Cabernet and Merlot is extensive not to mention the deals and 90 point rating signs.

Va La offers unique blends that you will not find at any local wine shop but the price point is what many may consider high (the new 2009 Seed retails at $45). For many people it is often difficult to 'judge' a wine if they have no frame of reference or a wine to compare against. This can work in favor of the winery or against it.

Va La offers local cheeses and chocolates paired with their wine for an educational and enjoyable tasting. Penns Woods has an intimate tasting room and has offered the chance to be part of a harvest in past vintages. Both offering are invaluable experiences for the local wine drinker. Wine is much more than opening a Cult Cab or a First Growth Bordeaux and both wineries offer opportunity to expand your horizons.

The cost of these bottle may be high and they may never score 100 points from Spectator or Advocate but if we continue to push the farm to table movement we should also support the local wine movement especially when wineries are making a serious effort to craft serious wine.

Do you support local wineries?

"A.B.C."

"A.B.C." - Anything but Chardonnay is a common expression I hear from many in the wine community. The days of the buttery, fruit forward style of Chardonnay are supposedly gone (not true). And that days of Chardonnay as the dominant white grape was also on the horizon (also not true).

But have you replaced Chardonnay as the white wine in your house or cellar. In my cellar the only Chardonnay that exists are those from my Long Island wine clubs and even those bottles number fewer than 5 or 6. The majority of white wine in my cellar is now Sauvignon Blanc, mostly Girard and Kathryn Hall (oaked).

I have also ventured past sauvignon blanc to other white wines. By far my favorite white grape is viognier. Darioush, to me, is the benchmark for all viognier's. It has a floral bouquet, grapefruit/melon front palate, proper acidity and the mouth feel of a red wine. I have searched far and wide for other viognier's that compare and have yet to find many, actually most I have found are disappointing. The most promising viognier's have come from the Willamette Valley, specifically Penner-Ash.

Speaking of Oregon their version of Pinot Gris is outstanding and is worth the exploration. I started with Lange Estate in Dundee as a staple but also enjoyed the Pinot Gris from St. Innocent and Cristom in Eola-Amity.

Closer to home alternative whites that standout is Va La Vineyards 'La Prima Donna' which is worth the trip to Avondale. It is a white blend of mostly grapes you have probably never heard of besides Pinot Grigio. There is always a bottle in my cellar. This wine could be considered an East Coast cult wine.

Moving further into the direction of alternative is Albarino. The grape is native to Spain's Rias Baixas region and if you are a regular of the PA Wine and Spirits store you could of certainly seen these wines on display. It makes a crisp refreshing wine that has a good deal of complexity. Long Island has seen an increase of planting Albarino and I would recommend to track down Palmer Vineyards version of this grape (in 500ml bottles). I have at least three more in my cellar to see how they age.

Any what about Riesling? I will treat Riesling as a subspecies that will be covered in a future post.

What 'other' white wine grapes do you have in your cellar?

Twist-Off

I was recently in Atlanta at a restaurant for brunch where we ordered a bottle of Champagne. The bottle came wrapped in foil but once the foil was removed there was not a cork to pop but a twist-off cap. It is the first time I have seen a sparkling wine of any kind use a twist-off cap. The wine was a bit on the sweet side but the majority of our table was using the Champagne for Mimosa's.

Wine Spectator stated the following:
"According to our statistics based on wines reviewed in 2012 by Wine Spectator editors, 91 percent of New Zealand's wines were bottled under twist-off, followed by Australia (67 percent), Oregon (23 percent), Argentina (14 percent), Washington (12 percent) and California (8 percent).
By comparison, only 6 percent of Spanish wines reviewed by us in 2012 had twist-offs, followed by France, with 3 percent, and Italy, with only 2 percent."

Despite my shock about the the twist-off the Champagne was mostly being used as a mixer and of course jokes about twist off's followed from the table.

These type of incidents continue to slow down the traction that serious wines in twist-off's are trying to achieve. Any regular follower of New Zealand expects all their wines, even the high end, to have a twist off. And I am seeing more and more white wines from Napa, especially Sav Blanc, come in twist-off. The quality of wine these days can no longer be judged solely on what covers the bottle.

White wine and New Zealand aside, how do we feel about our red wines using twist-off instead of cork. Some would argue that their is a certain romance to uncorking a bottle. Others argue that it is what is inside the bottle that counts and too many wines have cork taint. Natural cork is a renewable resource and no one has calculated the impact to the environment of millions of twist-off's.

In certain cases drinking wine is much deeper than what is inside the bottle. The wine, much like a winery tour, is all about the feelings, memory and emotions that the wine triggers. From the time you cork the wine, to the decanting period, to finally sharing the wine it all builds in our mind and soul. I want my vintage Champange to "pop" or to focus on uncorking an older bottle. It builds the anticipation and the romance.

Too many experiences these days are instant gratification, enjoying your finest red, white and Champagne should not be one of them.

Where do you stand?

Wine by the Glass

I am traveling for the Easter Holiday. One afternoon my wife and I went to the lobby bar for a quick drink. My first choice will always be wine so I glance at the wine list and settle on a name I am familiar with 'Rutherford Ranch'. There are many issues I have with wine by the glass but I will start with my two largest.

First, for a bottle I know costs $24 retail at the store they were charging $11 a glass. Assuming they pour 4 glasses they make double the retail price of the wine. I have heard the argument that you have to add overhead for glasses and waitstaff but the bartender had no knowledge of the wine nor was the generic 4oz glass.

Second, I proceeded to ask how long the wine has been open and what is the policy, in days, for removing a wine from the shelf. After two ambiguous answers including "a few days" and "when it is bad" I determined for this markup I was potentially paying $11 for an oxidized wine that is not removed until someone complains. I fail to understand how this type of 'service' justifies such an incredible markup.

I ended up with a Sweetwater Brewery Brown Ale which was excellent and only $4.

How do you feel about wine service by the glass?

Long Island North Fork Trip Part 4

The last stop on our tour of the North Fork was Roanoke Vineyards. I have to admit I walked into and out of the tasting room at least twice before I stopped to taste. I prefer to avoid the crowds, especially at the end of the day, and Roanoke's location at the end of the wine trail (west) means it is a great last stop.

Finally we were able to stop in when it was not crowded and after the first sip I immediately regretted not stopping in sooner. It is hard to compare them to any other wine except to say Cabernet was meant to grow on the Roanoke Vineyard. Roanoke is also known for its Gabby's Franc, which has achieved cult like status on the North Fork.

They offer a white, red, mixed and member flight. The red fight highlights what they do best, Cabernet and Cabernet based blends. The Blend One and Blend 2 (in which 2008 are the final vintages to be replaced by Prime Number) are Cabernet and Cabernet Franc blends that are on par with any Bordeaux blend. They show the combination of structure, finesse and fruit. The Blend 2 is 50% Cabernet Franc which is supported in structure by the Cab and Merlot, while the Blend One is 75% Cabernet with equal parts Merlot and Franc to round out the mouth feel. If you have a friend or colleague who doubts how great Long Island wine can be bring him or her a bottle of the Blend One.

Roanoke also celebrates Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Merlot as single varietals. The Cabernet Franc has two offering, Gabby's and Roanoke Cabernet Franc.

The tasting room and wine's should be a must stop and not just for the fact it is on the way home. Roanoke has quickly become one of benchmarks for high quality on the North Fork

Recommendation - A must stop for the red wine and red wine blends.

What I Drank - 03/24/2013

I enjoy retrying wines from places that I have visited but almost forgotten about due to the length of time since the last taste. It is almost like a reintroduction to an old friend. I first visited Anaba in May of 2009 during the Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers event. The winery is located right off 121 in Sonoma not far from Cline and Ravenswood. The winery is an old farmhouse that is small and quaint. The real standout of the tasting room is the outdoor deck that overlooks the vineyards. It is the perfect place to end your day if you are in the Carneros region of Sonoma. Although my wife would counter that Gloria Ferrer is the ideal place to end the day and truthfully neither option is incorrect.

An offer from WTSO crossed by email for 4 bottles of Anaba Pinot Noir 2010 Sun Chase Vineyard Sonoma Coast which was rated 91 points by James Laube of Wine Spectator. I normally do not buy on rating alone but I remember liking the Pinot at Anaba (another post on taking notes during wine tasting in the future) and my palate tends to agree with Mr. Laube so I bought the offering.

We had our friends over for Sunday dinner and opening two bottles with the chicken and vegetables seemed like the perfect choice.
The front palate had notes of chocolate covered cherries and red fruit. The mid palate pushes the cherry and fruit notes to the back as hints of dark chocolate with a touch of oak coat the middle of the mouth. The strongest and best part of the wine was the finish which has a unique sweet earthiness. The earth in the finish gives the wine a long finish that leaves you wanting another sip.

Recommendation: A great wine that changes character at each point in the both making for a complex and enjoyable wine. Sold-out on the website.

***Editor's Note - this wine was purchased on WTSO.COM***

Deciding What to Drink

How do you decide what to wine to open? Does the temperature drive your decision towards white over red. Does your weeknight wine differ from what you would open on a Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Do you decide which wine to drink based on what food you are preparing.

I have an internal struggle most nights on what to open. I do not have the most diverse cellar-mine consists mostly of Napa Cabernet, Sonoma Pinot (RRV, Sonoma Coast, etc), Napa Merlot and Long Island North Fork. Some weeks I can through "kicks" where I will drink exclusively one varietal or another. Some nights it depends on how long the wine needs to decant, e.g. if I ample time to prepare a young Cabernet. Sometimes my decision is based on which wine will last for 2 or 3 days in the bottle, despite what wineries say not all wines are created equal in this category.

To add one more thought, if 20% or more of your bottles cannot be opened on any occasion (e.g. a Tuesday or Saturday or if you alma mater is playing in the NCAA tournament) than you may want to reconsider your buying habits.

Auction Buying

Tonight I am drinking 2005 Favia Cerro Sur. The wine on the mailing list is $125. At Spectrum Wine action I was able to get 6 bottles of Cerro Sur for $225 plus fees and shipping which brought the sum total to 299.95. This is the equivalent of two bottles plus shipping from the mailing list.

Auction buying has some great advantages such as being able to buy hard to find wines. Even better, in my example above, being able to buy hard to find wines (or mailing list only wines) at well below retail value.

Auctions are not always the best value as you have the buyers percentage (at Spectrum 19.5% of the final bid value) and the shipping cost. Plus buying directly from the winery is the only way to ensure the wine was properly stored, this is important of older wines.

I view the auction sites for mostly values but I have used them to buy hard to find second labels (Bond -Matriarch and Harlan-Maiden for example). I have also used them as value 'steals' for Nickel and Nickel, Favia and Palmaz to name a few.

The difficult part of auction buying is once you buy a great wine at a great price it is often hard to turn around and pay full price (especially if the wine exceeds $100) or waiting 3 years to get on the mailing list.

Does Auction buying effect your perspective when buying bottles you really enjoy at retail price?

Oak Influence

Toast, Chocolate and Vanilla are some of the nuances in wine that denote the use of oak. We will ignore in this post the wineries that use oak chips or oak powder. I prefer to discuss oak in terms of oak barrels. Oak barrels come in many types, but that main component of the oak barrels are region (French, Missouri, Hungarian) and toast (light, medium, medium plus, heavy). The majority of barrels I have seen in Napa Valley are French and M or M+ toast. The higher end wineries will use new french oak barrels once ($1200-$2000 a barrel) for Cabernet and after three or more uses the barrel is considered neutral oak which is used for chardonnay or even Sav Blanc.

Our lower end wineries use oak mainly to hide the over ripeness of the grapes or the lack of complexity from high yields. Oak should be used to enhance the wine and should be done in balance, much like alcohol levels or tannin.

One winery that prides itself on its innovative us of oak is Del Dotto Winery of St. Helena. They will take grapes from the same vineyard, same blend and put it in many different types of oak. If you doubt the influence oak can have over a wine then you should take the wine tour at Del Dotto. I have had Rutherford Cabernet in both French and American oak that tasted like two distinct wines that you would never know came from the same vineyard.

How do you feel about oak?

What I drank 3/18/13

Hall Wines is consistently one of my favorite wineries. There Cabernet's show exceptional dark fruit notes, strong tannin and the dryness that you expect from a high end Cabernet.

The 2010 HALL "Ellie's" Cabernet Sauvignon deviates from that path a little bit. Showing the signature dark fruit this wine is very soft and approachable. What differentiates it from other Hall Artisan offerings is the structure that carries the fruit to the mid palate. In the case of the 2010 HALL "Ellie's" Cabernet Sauvignon the dark fruit hits the palate immediately is carried to the mid palate where black candy notes take over. The finish is medium in length that does coat the entire mouth.

Hall wines, especially the Artisan collection, typically represent dark fruits and and rich tannin. The 2010 HALL "Ellie's" Cabernet Sauvignon falls short of the rich tannin and power but freely expresses itself with unmistakable dark fruit from beginning to end.

Recommendation - If you prefer a more approachable Napa Valley Cabernet, with softer tannin and big dark fruit notes, this is your wine. If you buy Hall for its rich and velvety tannin then another Hall offering is the better option.

***Editor's Notes - This wine was purchased via the wine club with discount's available to all wine club members***

What I Drank - 03/19/2013

Sea Smoke is regarded as one of the premier Pinot Noir producers in the US. I have been on the Sea Smoke mailing list for two vintages. Tonight I tasted 2010 Sea Smoke 'Southing' Pinot Noir. It is one of the three single vineyard designate bottling from Sea Smoke. It is the first wine that is available to new mailing list members. I give each wine I buy from a well known producer two vintages. I was not in love with the 2009 enough to stay on the wine list but adhering to my rule I purchased the 2010 'Southing' to give it second chance.

The 2010 Sea Smoke 'Southing' Pinot Noir is distinct in its complexity. True to California it has potent berry notes in the front palate, the mid palate has subtle tannin that carry secondary notes of raspberry and cola to the extremely long finish. Yet despite the fruit and cola notes this wine is very balanced and even refined. This wine is perfectly balanced and has a finish that coasts the tongue for more than 40 seconds.

The 2010 vintage of 'Southing' (and my only bottling of Sea Smoke) proves why Sea Smoke deserves its place among the grand cru Pinot producers in California.

Recommendation - Minimum two years wait time on the wait list. At $59 it is also well priced compared to comparable "cult" Napa Cabernets. Worth the time if you have the patience.

***Editor's Note - I bought this wine at market price as part of the mailing list***

Liquor privatization in PA

The Big news from Harrisburg today was that the a bill discussing the privatization of PA wine/liquor store has made it to the house floor. The bill started with Gov. Corbett and his proposal to have all the 600 state controlled liquor stores transferred to the private sector. After partisan non-sense the bill, with a few amendments, actually made it to the house floor where a vote will take place in the coming week or two. This is the furthest a bill to open up PA liquor/wine sector through PA legislature in many years and a positive step for the PA wine industry.

What does this all mean for us, the wine lovers of PA. We can hope for more diversity in our wine selections. We should be able to now expect knowledgeable owners and employees. And maybe this can lead to opening the borders for direct shipping.

Allowing organic growth of the wine community would benefit the state in terms of tax revenue. For the foodie this could improve the below wine list offerings at many restaurants. If the wine lists become half as diverse as the beer selections we are in for some major treats.

The main benefit of this bill would be that the citizens of the Commonwealth can enjoy the same freedoms as Americans in 44 other states. Philadelphia is the 5th largest city in the US and Pittsburgh ranks in the top 61 so the potential for growth is enormous. The opening of Pennsylvania would aid the emerging wine markets of the Northeast/Mid-Atlantic regions including Long Island, Virginia, Finger Lakes and New Jersey. Reciprocal shipping agreements could also benefit our local wine industry.

Unfortunately our elected representatives have decided that parties lines are more important than what is best for our Commonwealth and its citizens. This is not a political blog nor will it ever be, but do we really need the state to tell us what wines we can drink. That is why we have Robert Parker and James Laube.

How do you feel?

Wine and Indian Food

I am not a huge fan of pairing wine with food. When I am tasting a wine one of my judging criteria for purchase is the wine's ability to stand alone. I am well aware that this is a new world wine bias as many French and Italian wines can transform with the appropriate foods. But we will save the general discussion for another post.

Pairing wine with Indian food provides a number challenges. The first is the spice as spice an overwhelm your taste buds. Second, in line with the first, are the other spices that do not provide heat but also can overwhelm the senses including coriander, ginger, star anise, cumin, mustard, mint and many others. Lastly is the sauces which can vary from sweet to savory.

I typically eschew red wines. I find Cabernet fights with the spices and Pinot is much to delicate and becomes lost on the palate. When picking from the wine fridge I lean in one of two directions, Viognier or Sauvignon Blanc.

I like the acidity that Sauvignon Blanc brings to the table. I find Sauvignon Blanc without any oak influence compliments many of the sauces in Indian. The acidity also holds up well against the heat and the apple/melon notes compliment the Christmas spices.

Viognier is a choice if I know we will be having Tikka Masala or Saag. The honeysuckle and slight new French oak use of Darioush's Viognier provide a rich finish that marries well to the richness of the dishes.

Typically our "go-to" white wine for Indian is Sauvignon Blanc. What are your choices?

UFC Wine Pairing Part 2

My wife and I cannot always agree on wine. What we can always agree on is a good Pinot Noir specifically a Sonoma Pinot Noir. Walt is owned and operated by Kathryn Hall Napa Valley. Prior to Kathryn Hall the label was known as Roessler. I did not drink Roessler prior but the Walt label holds true to the same high standards as that of Hall Napa Valley.

The Walt 2010 La Brisa Sonoma County is made in the more refined California Pinot Noir Style. The fruit, spice and earth notes are quite prevalent in the mid palate. The front palate shows chewy-firm tannin. The finish is mid length with cherry cola notes.

Recommendation - For those who prefer a refined style Pinot.

***Editor's Note - Walt wine was purchased via wine club with no discounts***

UFC 158 Wine Pairing

When most people think of the UFC deciding what wine to open does not come to mind. I am a huge UFC fan and when I am paying 54.99 to sit on my couch for four hours I always pair the PPV with one of my must have wines. For 158 I decided to open (and decant) RUDIUS 2009 PANEK VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON. Rudius is only open to the mailing list and I typically buy only one bottle of Panek vineyard a year. I typically do not like to buy only one bottle due to the fact if you misjudge when to open a wine you do not have a second chance.

I took a risk (I prefer my Napa wines young) and opened the RUDIUS 2009 PANEK VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON. After 30 minutes in the decanter I poured my first glass. Usually 30 minutes is not enough time to mellow the tannin but this wine was very approachable. Typically approachable can mean "run the other way" but not for this wine. The oak is very noticeable in the front palate but quickly gives way to cherry and dark fruit. The tannin structure holds the fruit through the mid palate. The finish is long and coats the tongue. The finish would benefit from the wine spending more time in the decanter.

The list of complex high end Napa Valley Cabernet's is long but Rudius deserves a seat at the table.

Recommendation - It is unlikely you will find this in your local wine store, it is not carried in PA, but it is worth a part of your spring allocation. For those in PA it means having someone in NY or another neighboring state that you can trust to hold your wine.

***Editor's Note - I bought this wine as part of the mailing list with no discounts***

What I Drank - 3/14/2013

As a business traveler getting time to sit down and enjoy a bottle of wine can be a challenge. Last Night I went to the wine store to share a bottle of wine in the hotel lobby with some colleagues. Due to the time of night most wine stores were closed so my selection was limited to what Safeway Supermarket offered. I settled on the 2009 Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($44).

The Pinot is in the fruit forward California style. The front palate has notes of strawberry and ripe raspberry with a big mouth feel. The wine holds strong through the mid palate and the finish displays subtle secondary tobacco notes.

Recommendation - A good social wine to share that does not require focus to understand its nuances. Low QPR ratio yet one of the better wines you will find in a supermarket- which is a foreign concept to my local PA residents.

Decanting

In 2010 Matt Kramer made a statement that profoundly altered my approach to drinking wine at home.
He stated "...I’m prepared to say that one of the truths of wine is that pretty much all wines, red or white, young or old, are better if decanted." -from (http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/42838)

I gravitate towards younger Napa Valley Cabernet and Sonoma Pinot both which benefit from a few hours in the decanter. This allows them to open up and show their true character. Decanting these wines are almost a necessity.

But what about older wines or other regions.
Most of the red wine from the North Fork is approachable right outside the bottle but some decanting allows the secondary notes to show.
I find old world wines (especially older Bordeaux) that are decanted have to be consumed rather quickly as the optimal drinking window fades after 60 minutes.
Oregon Pinot, especially younger Pinot from Eola-Amity, express beautiful fruit and earth after 30 minutes in the decanter.

The general rule of thumb in my house is all red wines are decanted.

What decanting practices do you follow?

Long Island North Fork Trip Part 3

If you turn on right Peconic Lane from County Road 48 a few small buildings will appear almost immediately on your right. Inside two of those buildings house the The Winemaker Studio. The Winemaker Studio "is a cooperative tasting room in Peconic New York, featuring Long Island winemakers and their current releases for tasting and for purchase. In an intimate setting in the heart of the North Fork Wine Country we offer a broad range of wines and wine styles showcasing the local vineyards, wineries, and winemakers."

We arrived at The Winemaker Studio and took up a space at the bar. The The Winemaker Studio has a number of tables and also offers local beer and spirits. But we arrived to taste wine. The offerings are a la carte and each taste ranges from $2-$4.

The list of wines are from producers such as Anthony Nappa, T'Jara, Suhru and Leo Family to name a few.

I tasted the following
2007 T'Jara Merlot
-A typical high end Long Island Merlot. Soft subtle tannin with bright fruit and a medium finish. It delivers as advertised.

2010 dieci from Anthony Nappa
-The dieci is one of the best wines I have ever tasted from the North Fork. It is the symbol of what North Fork wines can achieve. This wine had beautiful bright fruit, firm tannin and a finish that lasts for over 30 seconds. The oak influence is minimal but provides a nice balance to the fruit. The wine still maintains the North Fork terroir of tobacco and earth. An exceptional wine from an excellent producer. I took a bottle home for dinner.

Recommendation - a must visit to support the smaller North Fork producers.

****Editor's Note - paid for all tasting myself****

Long Island North Fork Trip Part 2

At the end of the Middle Road (County Road 48) wine trail is Sparkling Pointe. Sparkling Pointe, as the name implies, only crafts sparkling wine in the 'methode champenoise' (although they do not hand riddle). The oldest wine is from 2003 and all the wine from 2007 onward is 100% from the estate vineyard. If you prefer aged sparkling wine or if you are curious how sparkling pointe's sparkling wine age you will need to wait until 2027.

We tasted the following as part of the wine flight and my below each wine is my tasting notes:
Blanc de Blanc 2007 (100% estate - 100% Chardonnay)
-Subtle grapefruit notes with a hint of yeast this representation of the Blanc de Blanc shows why the North Fork could become the benchmark region for sparkling wine.

Brut NV (54% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir, 12% Reserve Wine)
-My favorite sparkling wine in North America. Schramsberg's Blanc de Blanc and Blanc de Noir have lately challenged for the title but the Sparkling Pointe Brut NV has the acidity, fruit and mineral notes I expect in a sparkler. It combines in perfect balance the best of the Champagne region with the bright fruit expected from a new world wine.

2005 Brut Magnum
-The first release of Magnum size from S.P. this wine spent 7 years on yeast. Unfortunately the blend and my tasting notes are not available.

2003 Brut Selection (51% Chardonnay, 49% Pinot Noir)
-Think buttered toast. A wonderful and complex wine that has an effervescence much younger than its age would suggest.

2008 Blanc de Noir (54% Pinot Meunier, 46% Pinot Noir)
-Bright fruit of the 'red' grapes really show through in this wine. Very light yeast flavor.

The tasting flight is $17 and the tasting room has a wide array of eats to pair. Outside food can be consumed outside on the patio only. The winery offers to waive one tasting with the purchase of two bottles and gives 6 and 12 bottle discounts. We tasted with three people ($51) but we purchased 6 bottles which waived all three tastings and gave us a 10% discount. Excellent value!

*Editor's Note* - All wine's and tasting were paid for by me and all discounts given are available to all customers.

Friday Night - 3/8/13

Friday nights in my house is a prime night to open a nice bottle of wine and relax. This week was Realm Cellar's Tempest 2010. It is a Merlot heavy blend consisting of 64% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Petit Verdot. The 2010 is the follow-up to the 2008 and 2009 which both scored 94 points from James Laube of Wine Spectator. The wine has a soft mouth feel with structured but not overwhelming (yet still pronounced) tannin. The dry style of the wine is perfectly in balance with the fruit with neither taking center stage. The finish is long and coats the tongue for an extended period. A great example of how a Merlot blend can benefit from Cabernet while holding true to the essence of Merlot.
This wine is only available via the mailing list (https://www.realmcellars.com)

Recommendation: A buy for fans of the Bordeaux Right Bank style.

*Editor's Note* - I purchased all the wine myself at retail price from the mailing list.

Long Island North Fork Trip Part 1

The first stop on the Saturday wine tour of Long Island was Mattebella Vineyards. Mattebella is at the far end of the North Fork wine road which makes it a good place to start and work your way back to the highway. Mattebella is much smaller than many of the wineries and hosts the wine tasting in a nicely decorated small house. The house includes some couches and a nice bench. The small tasting room and lack of crowds allows for a very intimate experience.

We tasted the following wines:
2009 Famiglia Chardonnay
-If you are a fan of Chablis style of Chardonnay this is your wine. High acidity and balanced fruit. This is the opposite of the normal Chardonnay you find in the local store.
2010 Famiglia Chardonnay
-2010 was a warmer year and it shows in this wine. The fruit is much brighter, the use of oak is more prevalent and the acid is not as high. This could be described as a 'New World' Chablis.
2010 Reserve Chardonnay
-Typical Burgundian Style Chardonnay. Significant oak, vanilla and buttery qualities. Similar to anything you can find in your local wine store and cheaper.
2011 Rose
-The essence of what a true Rose should be. Light and refreshing yet has structure that will hold up with many diverse meals. The wine has a long finish. This wine will satify any lover of Provence style Rose. Best wine in the portfolio. A true sense of what the North Fork is capable of doing. This is a wine I would bring to any wine lover not familiar with Long Island.
NV Famiglia Red
-Easy drinking wine that has effervescent hints. Dark fruits in the front palate but lacking in the finish. Your typical Italian style table wine.
2007 Old World Blend
-Remains true to old world style. Has the earthy qualities you would expect from Chianti or Bordeaux. The front and mid palate show dark fruits and the finish has only light tannin. An easy drinking wine that would benefit from food.
2008 Old World Blend
-The weather in 2008 was not a sunny as 2007 and it shows immediately in the wine. The wine has a high tannin content and the dark fruits are not as prevalent. Another wine that would benefit from food at the table.

Overall the 2009 Famiglia Chardonnay and 2011 Rose are exceptional wines. The red wines are enjoyable but lack the depth and complexity of the whites and roses.

Recommendation - a must visit on your North Fork adventures.

*Editor's Note* - I paid full price for the tasting and purchased two bottles at full retail price.

Wine Tasting

Tomorrow I will be wine tasting on Long Island's North Fork. We will discuss the tastings and results in a future post. I wanted to discuss, the rules or perceived rules on wine tasting. There are a number of opinions and most I believe are too rigid.

Rich's Guideline to Wine Tasting
1- It is fine to 'swallow' - As long as you keep it to two or three wineries.
2- Have high expectations of your host. If the winery wants you to take their wine seriously they should provide an employee who is willing and able to answer all your questions.
3- If you like a wine, take a bottle home.
4- If your goal is to get drunk, go to the wineries that support this behavior. They will be three people deep and the employees will pour the 'next' wine without any description.
5- If 4 is the opposite of your goal, avoid these wineries at all costs. This knowledge can be found at yelp or knowledgeable sites or blogs.
6- A wine club is a great option if you love the winery and their hard to find wines. Some wineries best offerings are limited to the wine club only. But do not be pressured into signing up. If your host hands you a form before you taste a wine, throw it out.
7- TAKE NOTES! Your day can be busy so writing down notes about each wine will help you at the end of the day.
8- Your experience can enhance the wine tasting. If you have a great time with a great host do not be disappointed if the wine you brought home does not live up to your expectations. This is why publications such as Wine Spectator do blind tastings.

Any guidelines I missed?

What to drink

The other day I realized I have been drinking much more beer than wine which is against my norm. After careful examination I realized the more I go out, the more I drink beer. Philadelphia is a beer city, within a few blocks of my house are four very good gastro pubs with diverse micro brews on tab. They have house wine but it is not worth the price nor is the quality what I consider up-to-par.

On the airplane I was sitting in first class with a guy who ordered "red wine". I inquired to why he ordered the 'red' wine over beer, where at least the flight attendant gives you the beer names, and he told me "I'm just a wine drinker".

Which leads to my question of the night. When you have the choice between lower quality wine or a decent or good beer (or mixed drink) what do you choose?

What I drank - February 2013

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Vintage 1999
Older Champagnes journey from bright, light and effervescent to a beautiful golden color with hints of bing cherry and only small amounts of bubbles. This wine reminds me of an adolescent teenager - not fully mature but not a child. Slightly golden in color with good acidity and just a faint hint of cherry. Would benefit from another 5-6 years in the cellar.
Comments - Buy and Hold till 2019

Fantesca - King Richard's Reserve Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2009
Fantesca is known for their rich Spring Mountain Cabernet and their Burgundian style Chardonnay, both crafted by the master winemaker Heidi Barrett. The Pinot Noir (made by Anthony Arcudi) should not be overlooked. For those who enjoy California style Pinot Noir this is a wine to try. The only negative is the cost ($114).
Comments - Only available through the wine list.

Sojourn - Russian River Valley 2010 Pinot Noir
In terms of QPR this wine may have no equal. Focusing on single vineyard Pinot's from Sonoma this vineyard blend should be the benchmark for all those who are not ashamed of the California climate. Graceful yet fruit forward the wine meets my three criteria, great front and mid palate combined with a long finish. Price ($42).
Comments - Buy a case and share with friends.

*Editor's Note* - I purchased Sojourn and Fantesca as a mailing list member at full price. The Veuve Clicquot was a gift from friends.

Buying Wine

Each Spring and Fall my email is bombarded with offers from wineries. Combine that with the emails from the discount wine websites (WTSO, Wine Access, Lot18, Invino, etc) and deciding how to allocate my finite budget with the seemingly infinite offers is daunting. How to decide? I always appreciate the wineries that send out a pre-email to let me know that an offer is forthcoming. This allows some budget forecasting. I immediately discard offers that tell me in what multiples I have to purchase (minimum of 3 or 6). Wineries that offer shipping deals tend to move to the top of my list. I do not expect free shipping but for 6+ bottles a flat rate special should be standard. I always try two new wines a year if possible from the mailing lists. There is a risk in purchasing before you taste but it helps to expand the palate. And you never know what you may try that will be amazing. How do others make Spring Allocation decisions?