As the weather gets warmer I tend to gravitate towards Pinot and white wine. This Friday the choice was the HALL Sauvignon Blanc 2011. The Hall Sauvignon Blanc 2011 is a twist off which is proof that you cannot judge a wine on how it is sealed. HALL does twSauvignon Blancs, the HALL"T Bar T Ranch" Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc which uses neutral oak and the Hall Sauvignon Blanc which is all stainless steel.
The wine has grapefruit and apricot on the nose. The front palate has apricot and honeysuckle notes which coat the entire palate. The mid palate has well balanced acidity and strong apricot notes. The finish coats your tongue with light grapefruit and the honeysuckle returns.
This Sauvignon Blanc has depth and complexity. At $22 it is reasonably priced considering the complexity the wine delivers. A must try for Sauvignon Blanc lovers.
Friday, April 26, 2013
Thursday, April 25, 2013
Agritourism
There is an old adage 'If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound'. We can adapt this adage to this wine business 'If a winery makes a great wine but no one visits to drink it does it still taste good'.
Recently I visited two distinct wineries, one that did not sell outside their mailing list and focused on the wine, essentially the wine lover has to come to them. The other winery focused on events to bring people to the winery and hope the people stay for the wine.
Making wine is a capital intensive process that requires the vintners to pay money upfront for hope of selling a product at some time in the future. As I drove home after the tastings I started to debate with myself about the merits of agritourism and the financial benefits that may drive this decision.
The clear advantages are that the winery makes money, stays in business and continues to make wine. The disadvantages are numerous, including drunk people, crowded tasting rooms with little personalized attention and the 'party' atmosphere.
Does the wine start to suffer if large amounts of effort and money go into planning events. Does this erode margins and profit which would of been used to improve the quality of future vintages. To offset the cost of an event the customers that attend need to purchase more than tastings. This brings into question if the event model has long term sustainability.
The boutique winery on the other hand has to focus all its efforts on making the best wine possible to bring customers to the winery. But word of mouth does take time yet once the winery is established the need for events becomes unnecessary as the wine quality sells itself.
As a patron I will always favor the boutique wineries. But when wine tasting on a nice day which do you prefer?
Recently I visited two distinct wineries, one that did not sell outside their mailing list and focused on the wine, essentially the wine lover has to come to them. The other winery focused on events to bring people to the winery and hope the people stay for the wine.
Making wine is a capital intensive process that requires the vintners to pay money upfront for hope of selling a product at some time in the future. As I drove home after the tastings I started to debate with myself about the merits of agritourism and the financial benefits that may drive this decision.
The clear advantages are that the winery makes money, stays in business and continues to make wine. The disadvantages are numerous, including drunk people, crowded tasting rooms with little personalized attention and the 'party' atmosphere.
Does the wine start to suffer if large amounts of effort and money go into planning events. Does this erode margins and profit which would of been used to improve the quality of future vintages. To offset the cost of an event the customers that attend need to purchase more than tastings. This brings into question if the event model has long term sustainability.
The boutique winery on the other hand has to focus all its efforts on making the best wine possible to bring customers to the winery. But word of mouth does take time yet once the winery is established the need for events becomes unnecessary as the wine quality sells itself.
As a patron I will always favor the boutique wineries. But when wine tasting on a nice day which do you prefer?
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
PA Wine Tasting - Part 3
Penns Wood has two tasting flights, the normal tasting menu and the reserve tasting menu. The normal tasting menu only had one red wine so I went with the reserve tasting ($15) to taste all three red wines that were offered. The red grapes comes from the estate vineyard as well as a vineyard in Coatesville.
The red wines are listed in the order I tasted them.
2004 Ameritage - This wine is a blend of five grape varietals including 4 bordeaux and nebbiolo. The front palate has tobacco, cedar and smoke notes. The mid palate has hints of Easter ham and good structure. The finish is European in style with light structure and strong earth flavor. Retail $35.
2004 Reserve Ameritage - Fuller bodied than the regular Amertiage, the front palate gives dark berry and chocolate notes. The mid palate shows more red fruit and the firm tannin. The tanning on the finish are soft but the finish is surprisingly uninspiring. Retail $45.
Merlot Reserve 2005 - The front palate of the Merlot has light cedar, tobacco and strawberry notes. The mid palate shows dried fruit and soft but pronounced tannin. The finish is middle length with firm tannin structure across the tongue. The style is reflective of an Old World style Merlot that would not be out of place in a French or Italian cafe. The best red wine of the flight. Retail $34.
Penns Wood's red wines are still showing strong after 8 and 9 years. The 2005 Reserve Merlot was showing subtle fruit and the secondary notes were pronounced. The Reserve Ameritage was lacking a complex finish which was disappointing. The blend of the Ameritage changes each year so it will be interesting to see how other blends do with time.
The red wines are listed in the order I tasted them.
2004 Ameritage - This wine is a blend of five grape varietals including 4 bordeaux and nebbiolo. The front palate has tobacco, cedar and smoke notes. The mid palate has hints of Easter ham and good structure. The finish is European in style with light structure and strong earth flavor. Retail $35.
2004 Reserve Ameritage - Fuller bodied than the regular Amertiage, the front palate gives dark berry and chocolate notes. The mid palate shows more red fruit and the firm tannin. The tanning on the finish are soft but the finish is surprisingly uninspiring. Retail $45.
Merlot Reserve 2005 - The front palate of the Merlot has light cedar, tobacco and strawberry notes. The mid palate shows dried fruit and soft but pronounced tannin. The finish is middle length with firm tannin structure across the tongue. The style is reflective of an Old World style Merlot that would not be out of place in a French or Italian cafe. The best red wine of the flight. Retail $34.
Penns Wood's red wines are still showing strong after 8 and 9 years. The 2005 Reserve Merlot was showing subtle fruit and the secondary notes were pronounced. The Reserve Ameritage was lacking a complex finish which was disappointing. The blend of the Ameritage changes each year so it will be interesting to see how other blends do with time.
Monday, April 22, 2013
PA Wine Tasting - Part 2
Penns Wood Winery is tasting room and vineyard estate is located in Chadds Ford . The Penns Woods Winery is located in Eddystone, Pa directly across the street from the owners Wine Import Company. The tasting room has a private back room for tastings (and this month wine and cupcake pairings), a bar and plenty of outdoor seating. The wine offerings are extensive so I will break them up into two posts, one white and one red.
The white wine is listed in the order they were tasted.
Traminette 2012 - A new release from Penns Wood this wine is made from the hybrid grape traminette. The front palate has drizzled honey and sweet notes which carries into the the mid palate. The finish has a touch of acid and a light finish. A sweet wine that lacks complexity yet is very easy drinking for those warm days. Retail price $22.
Sauvignon Blanc 2011 - This is a stainless steel Sav Blanc that has pear notes with hints of apple. Medium acidity and a decent finish. A standard sav blanc but the it is hard to justify the price to quality ratio. Retail $28.
Banscroft Riesling 2012 - Banscroft is the second label from Penns Wood that represents the more approachable wines. The 2012 Riesling has green apple notes, decent acidity and touches of sweetness. Retail $19
Chardonnay Reserve 2011 - The front palate has notes of bright fruit but the mid palate and finish are over powered by the oak. The finish leaves a mouth feel of toasted oak. A very average chardonnay offering. Retail $22.
White Merlot 2012 - Light red fruit on the front palate. The mid palate has a touch of sweetness with subtle pineapple notes. The finish lacks complexity but this is an easy drinking wine. Retail $22. This wine was not as bottle aged so a few more months in bottle before opening may benefit the wine.
Banscroft Moscato - The front palate shows grapefruit and honeysuckle. The wine is not syrupy like many other sweet wines. The wine has a bright and natural sweetness at the finish. A great representation of a dessert style wine that does not taste like medicine. Retail $19.
Penns Wood a diverse offering of white wines with many being very approachable.
The white wine is listed in the order they were tasted.
Traminette 2012 - A new release from Penns Wood this wine is made from the hybrid grape traminette. The front palate has drizzled honey and sweet notes which carries into the the mid palate. The finish has a touch of acid and a light finish. A sweet wine that lacks complexity yet is very easy drinking for those warm days. Retail price $22.
Sauvignon Blanc 2011 - This is a stainless steel Sav Blanc that has pear notes with hints of apple. Medium acidity and a decent finish. A standard sav blanc but the it is hard to justify the price to quality ratio. Retail $28.
Banscroft Riesling 2012 - Banscroft is the second label from Penns Wood that represents the more approachable wines. The 2012 Riesling has green apple notes, decent acidity and touches of sweetness. Retail $19
Chardonnay Reserve 2011 - The front palate has notes of bright fruit but the mid palate and finish are over powered by the oak. The finish leaves a mouth feel of toasted oak. A very average chardonnay offering. Retail $22.
White Merlot 2012 - Light red fruit on the front palate. The mid palate has a touch of sweetness with subtle pineapple notes. The finish lacks complexity but this is an easy drinking wine. Retail $22. This wine was not as bottle aged so a few more months in bottle before opening may benefit the wine.
Banscroft Moscato - The front palate shows grapefruit and honeysuckle. The wine is not syrupy like many other sweet wines. The wine has a bright and natural sweetness at the finish. A great representation of a dessert style wine that does not taste like medicine. Retail $19.
Penns Wood a diverse offering of white wines with many being very approachable.
Sunday, April 21, 2013
PA Wine Tasting Weekend - Part 1
The greater Philadelphia area has a small but strong wine region. One of the premier wine local wineries is Va La Vineyards, located in Avondale, PA. Va La sells all their wines directly from the tasting room.
The wine tasting at Va La is $20 and each wine is paired with a cheese. The wine flight consists on four wines which rotate based on wine availability. All wine that is available for tasting is available for purchase. What you will notice is that the majority of wines released are blends of Italian varietals. There is also a sprinkle of Bordeaux and other obscure vinifera in many of the wines. Each wine is unique which adds to the allure of this winery as you will not find these blends in the local wine store.
Below are my tasting notes in the order they were poured.
La Prima Donna 2010 - The 2009 and 2010 vintages have switched focus from earlier vintages. The main difference is the wine is now considered an 'orange wine' or vin orange meaning unlike typical white wines which have almost no skin contact this wine has extra contact with the skins giving the wine the orange color. The extra time on the skins gives the nose a beautiful bouquet of flowers. The wine is a blend of malvasia bianco, four clones of pinot grigio, tocai and petit manseng. Although the wine is predominately pinot grigio the other varietals add layers of complexity. The front palate is crisp and refreshing with melon flavors. The mid palate has melon flavors, subtle fennel notes and well balanced acidity. The finish mid length is dry with grapefruit notes. The price point for this wine is $40 but the quality matches the price. This is certainly one of the best white wines on all of the East Coast.
Silk 2009 - The Va La version of a dry rosato. This wine is a darker than the typical rose consists of barbera, corvina veronese, carmine, petit verdot and nebbiolo. The Silk is light in color and hits the front palate with subtle cherry flavors that are carried to the mid palate. The finish coats the mouth with Christmas spices notes. The Silk is darker and more complex than a typical rose and I would consider it more an alternative for lighter style Pinot Noir. The wine is priced $28 which aligns it with price point for Pinot Noir.
Seed 2009 - This is one of the few (and soon only) Va La wine that sourced from another vineyard. It is also one of the new, if not the only, wine that is a single varietal. The Seed is a small batch project made from a varietal (patent pending) that is a cross of the varieties carmine and cabernet franc. The 'special varietal' is grown and sourced from a vineyard in Coatesville. This was the only average to below average wine of the flight. The use of French and American Oak overpowered the grapes and my notes stated "typical over-oaked Bordeaux wine". The finish had vanilla notes but the ending was weak. At $45 the price to quality ratio is rather low but this wine does deserve a second chance in the future.
Mahogany 2009 - The Va La 'flagship' consisting of barbera, petit verdot, carmine, charbono, malvasia nero, teroldego,
lagrein and sagrantin. The initial front palate gives notes of cherry cola which are carried to the mid palate with firm structure and well integrated tannin. The finish carries subtle earth notes and the firm structure produces a long finish. This wine could certainly benefit from 5-7 years of aging to allow the tannin to give way to the secondary flavors. If you drink this wine early a long decanting period is necessary. At $45 this wine has an excellent price to quality ratio. The 2009 Mahagony is the red wine you should bring to anyone who doubts that the greater Philadelphia area cannot produce complex red wines.
Va La Vineyards is a must visit for all wine lovers. The family take their wines very seriously and it shows in each wine. The wine and local cheese pairing (and even local made chocolate) defines and celebrates the true localvoire movement.
And all for only $20 a person.
The wine tasting at Va La is $20 and each wine is paired with a cheese. The wine flight consists on four wines which rotate based on wine availability. All wine that is available for tasting is available for purchase. What you will notice is that the majority of wines released are blends of Italian varietals. There is also a sprinkle of Bordeaux and other obscure vinifera in many of the wines. Each wine is unique which adds to the allure of this winery as you will not find these blends in the local wine store.
Below are my tasting notes in the order they were poured.
La Prima Donna 2010 - The 2009 and 2010 vintages have switched focus from earlier vintages. The main difference is the wine is now considered an 'orange wine' or vin orange meaning unlike typical white wines which have almost no skin contact this wine has extra contact with the skins giving the wine the orange color. The extra time on the skins gives the nose a beautiful bouquet of flowers. The wine is a blend of malvasia bianco, four clones of pinot grigio, tocai and petit manseng. Although the wine is predominately pinot grigio the other varietals add layers of complexity. The front palate is crisp and refreshing with melon flavors. The mid palate has melon flavors, subtle fennel notes and well balanced acidity. The finish mid length is dry with grapefruit notes. The price point for this wine is $40 but the quality matches the price. This is certainly one of the best white wines on all of the East Coast.
Silk 2009 - The Va La version of a dry rosato. This wine is a darker than the typical rose consists of barbera, corvina veronese, carmine, petit verdot and nebbiolo. The Silk is light in color and hits the front palate with subtle cherry flavors that are carried to the mid palate. The finish coats the mouth with Christmas spices notes. The Silk is darker and more complex than a typical rose and I would consider it more an alternative for lighter style Pinot Noir. The wine is priced $28 which aligns it with price point for Pinot Noir.
Seed 2009 - This is one of the few (and soon only) Va La wine that sourced from another vineyard. It is also one of the new, if not the only, wine that is a single varietal. The Seed is a small batch project made from a varietal (patent pending) that is a cross of the varieties carmine and cabernet franc. The 'special varietal' is grown and sourced from a vineyard in Coatesville. This was the only average to below average wine of the flight. The use of French and American Oak overpowered the grapes and my notes stated "typical over-oaked Bordeaux wine". The finish had vanilla notes but the ending was weak. At $45 the price to quality ratio is rather low but this wine does deserve a second chance in the future.
Mahogany 2009 - The Va La 'flagship' consisting of barbera, petit verdot, carmine, charbono, malvasia nero, teroldego,
lagrein and sagrantin. The initial front palate gives notes of cherry cola which are carried to the mid palate with firm structure and well integrated tannin. The finish carries subtle earth notes and the firm structure produces a long finish. This wine could certainly benefit from 5-7 years of aging to allow the tannin to give way to the secondary flavors. If you drink this wine early a long decanting period is necessary. At $45 this wine has an excellent price to quality ratio. The 2009 Mahagony is the red wine you should bring to anyone who doubts that the greater Philadelphia area cannot produce complex red wines.
Va La Vineyards is a must visit for all wine lovers. The family take their wines very seriously and it shows in each wine. The wine and local cheese pairing (and even local made chocolate) defines and celebrates the true localvoire movement.
And all for only $20 a person.
Friday, April 19, 2013
What I Drank 04/19/2013
2008 HALL "Kathryn Hall" Cabernet Sauvignon is the highest rated wine (based on Wine Spectator's 100 point scale) from Kathryn Hall scoring 96 points. This wine was part of the Hall Collectors Club 2011 September shipment (full disclosure - I am a Kathryn Hall Collectors Club member).
Based on all the praise I was very excited to experience this wine. I decanted the wine in a two hours prior to taking my first sip. The wine is 'signature' Kathryn Hall, dry, dark fruit and firm structure. This wine could benefit from another 5-10 years of aging as the wine is very tight, even after two hours of decanting.
The front palate has dark fruit and subtle notes of minerality. The dryness and firm structure brings dark fruit and a very slight hint of espresso grinds to the mid palate. The finish shows finesse but still coats the tongue to provide a long finish.
Recommendation - The "Kathyrn Hall" is the flagship wine and deserves much of the praise. This wine can be consumed now but it would be better to wait another 5 years. If opening now decant at least 2-4 hours.
Based on all the praise I was very excited to experience this wine. I decanted the wine in a two hours prior to taking my first sip. The wine is 'signature' Kathryn Hall, dry, dark fruit and firm structure. This wine could benefit from another 5-10 years of aging as the wine is very tight, even after two hours of decanting.
The front palate has dark fruit and subtle notes of minerality. The dryness and firm structure brings dark fruit and a very slight hint of espresso grinds to the mid palate. The finish shows finesse but still coats the tongue to provide a long finish.
Recommendation - The "Kathyrn Hall" is the flagship wine and deserves much of the praise. This wine can be consumed now but it would be better to wait another 5 years. If opening now decant at least 2-4 hours.
Tuesday, April 16, 2013
What I Drank - 04/16/2013
I am normally a red wine drinker but today was the first mid 70 day and a red wine did not feel appropriate for the weather. Tonight I opened the 2011 Darioush Viognier. This is a full bodied white wine that would satisfy any red wine drinker.
The Darioush Viognier vineyard is located in the Oak Knoll appellation (actually right behind Bistro Don Giovanni).
The initial palate is summer fruit, honeydew and melon, but the mid palate gives way to subtle apricot notes. The wine has good acidity and firm structure similar to a lighter pinot noir. The wine coats the entire mouth and the structure brings the fruit notes and acidity to the finish. The finish is long in length and is characterized by the same apricot notes but in the back of the palate. The honeydew also returns as the finish coats the entire mouth.
Recommendation: This Viognier is the benchmark but which all other wines should be measured. This wine is a bit pricey ($41) but also very hard to find due to its popularity. A must try for any red wine drinkers who refuse or who have second thoughts drinking red wine.
***Editor's Note - I am a First Offering Member at Darioush including 6 bottles of Viognier a year***
The Darioush Viognier vineyard is located in the Oak Knoll appellation (actually right behind Bistro Don Giovanni).
The initial palate is summer fruit, honeydew and melon, but the mid palate gives way to subtle apricot notes. The wine has good acidity and firm structure similar to a lighter pinot noir. The wine coats the entire mouth and the structure brings the fruit notes and acidity to the finish. The finish is long in length and is characterized by the same apricot notes but in the back of the palate. The honeydew also returns as the finish coats the entire mouth.
Recommendation: This Viognier is the benchmark but which all other wines should be measured. This wine is a bit pricey ($41) but also very hard to find due to its popularity. A must try for any red wine drinkers who refuse or who have second thoughts drinking red wine.
***Editor's Note - I am a First Offering Member at Darioush including 6 bottles of Viognier a year***
Monday, April 15, 2013
Wine and Friends
Sunday evenings are generally a quiet time in our household. This particular Sunday was a beautiful spring day, one of the first in the Northeast. To celebrate the nice weather our friends decided to cook a leg of lamb and invited us over for Sunday dinner. Due to the weather I knew we would be outside on the deck so I grabbed two bottles of Pinot Noir and Sparkling Wine.
The wines were:
2008 Sparkling Pointe Brut
2011 Sojourn Cellars Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2010 Anaba Pinot Noir 2010 Sun Chase Vineyard Sonoma Coast
The 2011 Sojourn Cellars Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir was the perfect compliment for sitting outside. The bright fruits and firm structure allowed the wine to showcase itself without the accompaniment of food.
The Anaba with its earthiness and a touch of sweetness provided the perfect compliment to the leg of lamb and the acidity of the kale salad.
The point of wine is not just the wine itself. One of the great joys of any wine lover is the chance to share their collection with others especially close friends.
The light Pinot's and Sparkling wine were the perfect pairing for the beautiful weather, great conversation and excellent food.
The wines were:
2008 Sparkling Pointe Brut
2011 Sojourn Cellars Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2010 Anaba Pinot Noir 2010 Sun Chase Vineyard Sonoma Coast
The 2011 Sojourn Cellars Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir was the perfect compliment for sitting outside. The bright fruits and firm structure allowed the wine to showcase itself without the accompaniment of food.
The Anaba with its earthiness and a touch of sweetness provided the perfect compliment to the leg of lamb and the acidity of the kale salad.
The point of wine is not just the wine itself. One of the great joys of any wine lover is the chance to share their collection with others especially close friends.
The light Pinot's and Sparkling wine were the perfect pairing for the beautiful weather, great conversation and excellent food.
Saturday, April 13, 2013
Saturday Wine and the Masters
The Masters is truly an American tradition and in the mindset I decided to open the Del Dotto Ca'Nani 2010 Cabernet in American Oak. The Oak Barrel was carved and grooved by Alain Fouquet, who is a 4th generation cooper and one of the premier French coopers.
Ca'Nani is the name for the newest vineyard to be added to the Del Dotto legacy located in Oakville and has 8.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon. It will also be the site of their newest, and third, tasting room.
2010 Ca'Nani Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley is the lowest priced on their Cabernet ($45) but does not lack in quality and power.
The initial front palate shows cherry cola, raspberry and chocolate dust notes. The mid palate carries the dark fruit flavors and shows hints vanilla. The tannin structure is firm enough to handle the oak and the big fruit and at no time does the wine seem unbalanced. The finish coats the entire palate and continues for mid length.
The wine is what many would consider high octane Napa Valley; over 15% alcohol, large oak influence and bright fruit but this wine is not apologetic for what it is and manages perfect balance.
Recommendation - the quality to price ratio for this wine is excellent and it shows well after only 30 minutes of decanting. Del Dotto is top end producer at this price point this wine is an excellent Napa Valley 'value'. But if you prefer subtle wine this may not be for you.
***Editor's Note - this wine was bought from Del Dotto directly with no discount***
Ca'Nani is the name for the newest vineyard to be added to the Del Dotto legacy located in Oakville and has 8.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon. It will also be the site of their newest, and third, tasting room.
2010 Ca'Nani Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley is the lowest priced on their Cabernet ($45) but does not lack in quality and power.
The initial front palate shows cherry cola, raspberry and chocolate dust notes. The mid palate carries the dark fruit flavors and shows hints vanilla. The tannin structure is firm enough to handle the oak and the big fruit and at no time does the wine seem unbalanced. The finish coats the entire palate and continues for mid length.
The wine is what many would consider high octane Napa Valley; over 15% alcohol, large oak influence and bright fruit but this wine is not apologetic for what it is and manages perfect balance.
Recommendation - the quality to price ratio for this wine is excellent and it shows well after only 30 minutes of decanting. Del Dotto is top end producer at this price point this wine is an excellent Napa Valley 'value'. But if you prefer subtle wine this may not be for you.
***Editor's Note - this wine was bought from Del Dotto directly with no discount***
Thursday, April 11, 2013
Tor Kenward Vertical Tasting
I enjoy vertical tastings. It allows the wine taster to gain perspective on how a certain winery handles different vintages or if they use techniques to minimize vintage variation.
I was first introduced to Tor Kenward wines at Ma(i)sonry Napa Valley. After a flight I went home and signed up for the mailing list. One of my first offers was a three year vertical tasting of the Cimarossa Vineyard Cabernet. I thought this was an excellent way to gain insight into the winery and its wines.
I waited two years after purchase prior to tasting.
When it came time to prepare for the vertical tasting I reached out to the winery (via email) to ask for guidance. Within 24 hours the winery owner Tor Kenward responded providing guidance and insight into each vintage. Unlike most larger wineries Tor Kenward is able to bottle with no manipulation/filtering or fining – and in small amounts, so each wine is truly hand made which allows for true vintage variation.
I decanted each wine for 2 hours and provided the tasting notes.
The wine of the vertical were
2005 Mast-Cimarossa Cabernet ($75) - this was the only vintage where Tor made a Mast-Cimarossa Cabernet
2006 Cimarossa Cabernet ($75)
2007 Cimarossa Cabernet ($75)
The Cimarossa Vineyard is located in Howell Mountain which is highly prized for its intense and complex fruit.
There were four people, including myself, tasting and each person ranked their favorites.
The consensus favorite was the 2006 Cimarossa. It had the longest finish and firmer tannin, along with concentrated dark fruit. This wine could age for another 5 years. The 2007 was the most approachable and the consensus number 2, although the one non-regular wine drinker had this as her favorite. The wine showed a red and dark fruits with well structured but not overpowering tanning. The 2005 had the most balance and restraint with hints of red berry, much different from the 2006.
Wine Spectator rated the Napa Valley vintages which identically matched the groups thoughts about each of the Tor Kenward wines.
2005 92 points and noted "best are elegant and balanced"
2006 95 points and noted "A late, cool harvest produced dense, concentrated, structured and ageworthy wines"
2007 97 points and noted "amazing wines defined by enormous complexity and plush tannins"
Recommendation: A great vertical tasting that puts to rest the idea that Napa Cabernet's do not have true vintage variation. All three Cabernet's scored over 90 points and despite all the vineyard variation the consistent theme was well made and well structured wines. A must try.
I was first introduced to Tor Kenward wines at Ma(i)sonry Napa Valley. After a flight I went home and signed up for the mailing list. One of my first offers was a three year vertical tasting of the Cimarossa Vineyard Cabernet. I thought this was an excellent way to gain insight into the winery and its wines.
I waited two years after purchase prior to tasting.
When it came time to prepare for the vertical tasting I reached out to the winery (via email) to ask for guidance. Within 24 hours the winery owner Tor Kenward responded providing guidance and insight into each vintage. Unlike most larger wineries Tor Kenward is able to bottle with no manipulation/filtering or fining – and in small amounts, so each wine is truly hand made which allows for true vintage variation.
I decanted each wine for 2 hours and provided the tasting notes.
The wine of the vertical were
2005 Mast-Cimarossa Cabernet ($75) - this was the only vintage where Tor made a Mast-Cimarossa Cabernet
2006 Cimarossa Cabernet ($75)
2007 Cimarossa Cabernet ($75)
The Cimarossa Vineyard is located in Howell Mountain which is highly prized for its intense and complex fruit.
There were four people, including myself, tasting and each person ranked their favorites.
The consensus favorite was the 2006 Cimarossa. It had the longest finish and firmer tannin, along with concentrated dark fruit. This wine could age for another 5 years. The 2007 was the most approachable and the consensus number 2, although the one non-regular wine drinker had this as her favorite. The wine showed a red and dark fruits with well structured but not overpowering tanning. The 2005 had the most balance and restraint with hints of red berry, much different from the 2006.
Wine Spectator rated the Napa Valley vintages which identically matched the groups thoughts about each of the Tor Kenward wines.
2005 92 points and noted "best are elegant and balanced"
2006 95 points and noted "A late, cool harvest produced dense, concentrated, structured and ageworthy wines"
2007 97 points and noted "amazing wines defined by enormous complexity and plush tannins"
Recommendation: A great vertical tasting that puts to rest the idea that Napa Cabernet's do not have true vintage variation. All three Cabernet's scored over 90 points and despite all the vineyard variation the consistent theme was well made and well structured wines. A must try.
Tuesday, April 9, 2013
In Defense of Merlot
"I am not drinking f****** Merlot!" This single quote from 2004 is sited by many to be the decline of Merlot in the United States. This is despite the fact that the prized bottle was 1961 Château Cheval Blanc which is a Cabernet Franc / Merlot Blend.
Merlot, much like any other popular varietal, can suffer from wineries that do not show it the utmost care and do not plant it in the ideal spots.
In the past years I have become a very big fan of Merlot (or as my friend Dave tells winemaker's "good Merlot"). At recent tastings at Cardinale and Jarvis, the W.S. Keyes and 2009 Merlot respectively, were both the highlights of my tasting flight. Others in Napa Valley (including Darioush, Pride, Hourglass, Realm) produce world class Merlot that show integrated tannin, show dark fruits and a long smooth finish. While each has its own distinct style each of these wineries make Merlot that would convert any naysayer.
Wine Spectator has rated 57 wines from the 2008-2010 vintages 90 points or higher and all but two retail for under $100. Almost 40% of those with a 90 rating (from Napa alone) retail for under $50. The price quality ratio for "good Merlot" is much better than that of Napa Cabernet.
Broadening our search in the same vintages 2008-2010 Washington state had 85 Merlot's rated 90 points or higher under $50 out of 95 total Merlot's rated 90 points or above.
On the east coast the defining varietal for Long Island and there are many strong producers.
With so many options available those who have abandoned Merlot should return. You will not be disappointed!
Merlot, much like any other popular varietal, can suffer from wineries that do not show it the utmost care and do not plant it in the ideal spots.
In the past years I have become a very big fan of Merlot (or as my friend Dave tells winemaker's "good Merlot"). At recent tastings at Cardinale and Jarvis, the W.S. Keyes and 2009 Merlot respectively, were both the highlights of my tasting flight. Others in Napa Valley (including Darioush, Pride, Hourglass, Realm) produce world class Merlot that show integrated tannin, show dark fruits and a long smooth finish. While each has its own distinct style each of these wineries make Merlot that would convert any naysayer.
Wine Spectator has rated 57 wines from the 2008-2010 vintages 90 points or higher and all but two retail for under $100. Almost 40% of those with a 90 rating (from Napa alone) retail for under $50. The price quality ratio for "good Merlot" is much better than that of Napa Cabernet.
Broadening our search in the same vintages 2008-2010 Washington state had 85 Merlot's rated 90 points or higher under $50 out of 95 total Merlot's rated 90 points or above.
On the east coast the defining varietal for Long Island and there are many strong producers.
With so many options available those who have abandoned Merlot should return. You will not be disappointed!
Sunday, April 7, 2013
Disappointment in the cellar
Yesterday I opened a wine with some age (8 years) which I had looked forward to drinking since its purchase some years ago. It was a California Cabernet from a well known producer which I visited on one of my trips to Napa Valley. My hope for the wine was that the tannin and fruit would have subsided, but not disappeared, allowing secondary notes of earth, tobacco and any other surprises to appear.
After popping the cork the first thing I do with an aged wine is immediately smell for cork taint. After passing the first test I poured it into the glass and took a sip. The wine still had fruit notes but something was off. Within a few sips I realized the wine was flat. It was not corked or ruined it just did not have any life left in the wine. It was tired, flat or any other adjective that comes to mind.
I have read that wines can go into a transition period in the cellar. During this transition period that wine goes into a sort of hibernation where it does not show itself in prominence while it develops those secondary notes.
I am hoping this is the case with this wine and since I have three bottles left in the cellar I will try again on the vintages tenth birthday.
A disappointing Saturday night.
After popping the cork the first thing I do with an aged wine is immediately smell for cork taint. After passing the first test I poured it into the glass and took a sip. The wine still had fruit notes but something was off. Within a few sips I realized the wine was flat. It was not corked or ruined it just did not have any life left in the wine. It was tired, flat or any other adjective that comes to mind.
I have read that wines can go into a transition period in the cellar. During this transition period that wine goes into a sort of hibernation where it does not show itself in prominence while it develops those secondary notes.
I am hoping this is the case with this wine and since I have three bottles left in the cellar I will try again on the vintages tenth birthday.
A disappointing Saturday night.
Friday, April 5, 2013
Friday Night 04/05/2013
Girard Winery is one of my staples for great Cabernet. I have been a wine club member since 2006 switching from general wine club to cabernet only wine club in 2010. Tonight I decided to open one of my latest shipments from Girard which is the 2010 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon.
As described by the winery: "...this Cabernet Sauvignon is normally blended into our signature red blend, the ‘Artistry’." The Artistry is one of their flag ship wines so I was excited to try this Cabernet. The Composition is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, .7% Cabernet Franc, .3% Malbec
This wine can be summarized in one word; velvet. The wine coats your mouth from the initial taste, continues through the mid palate and the finish lasts over 25 seconds. The tannins are structured but not overpowering and hold the silk taste through the entire sip. The smoothness is accompanied by rich, almost dessert flavors, think caramel covered red fruit.
The Oakville Cabernet is a nice change from their mountain fruit Cabernet's (Mt. Veeder, Diamond Mt., Atlas Peak) due to the integrated tannin.
Recommendation- a great representation of an Oakville Cabernet. Normally 'easy-drinking' denotes 'not good' but in this case it is a decadent wine that invokes all the taste buds.
The price to quality ratio for this wine is excellent. $50 from the website, $40 for wine club members.
Editors' Note - I paid wine club price for these wines.
As described by the winery: "...this Cabernet Sauvignon is normally blended into our signature red blend, the ‘Artistry’." The Artistry is one of their flag ship wines so I was excited to try this Cabernet. The Composition is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, .7% Cabernet Franc, .3% Malbec
This wine can be summarized in one word; velvet. The wine coats your mouth from the initial taste, continues through the mid palate and the finish lasts over 25 seconds. The tannins are structured but not overpowering and hold the silk taste through the entire sip. The smoothness is accompanied by rich, almost dessert flavors, think caramel covered red fruit.
The Oakville Cabernet is a nice change from their mountain fruit Cabernet's (Mt. Veeder, Diamond Mt., Atlas Peak) due to the integrated tannin.
Recommendation- a great representation of an Oakville Cabernet. Normally 'easy-drinking' denotes 'not good' but in this case it is a decadent wine that invokes all the taste buds.
The price to quality ratio for this wine is excellent. $50 from the website, $40 for wine club members.
Editors' Note - I paid wine club price for these wines.
Thursday, April 4, 2013
What I Drank 04/03/2013
Purchasing wine when out a restaurant can be a daunting task. Price gouging is the number one issue on my mind. The restaurant I was at last night was selling for double retail price which I find acceptable ($47 retail, $84 on the wine list). I found this even more acceptable as we presented with Pinot Noir glasses once we ordered.
Prior to last night I have not tried nor heard of Emeritus Vineyards but we agreed to try something new. After some quick research I learned that Hallberg Ranch is located in the Russian River Valley and is the estate vineyard of Emeritus. Based on my recent good fortunes with 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot's, I selected the 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch.
The 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch did not disappoint. The front palate had a mix of ripe raspberry and blackberry flavors coated with coffee grinds. The ripe berry flavors continued boldly through the mid palate held by the firm structure and balanced acidity. The finish is bit shorter than expected and I was hoping for a bit more complexity.
Overall a great selection with my scallops and calamari.
Recommendation: 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch is drinking excellent at the moment with a great front and mid palate full of ripe berry and balanced acidity. While the finish was a bit disappointing it is on my restaurant order again list.
Prior to last night I have not tried nor heard of Emeritus Vineyards but we agreed to try something new. After some quick research I learned that Hallberg Ranch is located in the Russian River Valley and is the estate vineyard of Emeritus. Based on my recent good fortunes with 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot's, I selected the 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch.
The 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch did not disappoint. The front palate had a mix of ripe raspberry and blackberry flavors coated with coffee grinds. The ripe berry flavors continued boldly through the mid palate held by the firm structure and balanced acidity. The finish is bit shorter than expected and I was hoping for a bit more complexity.
Overall a great selection with my scallops and calamari.
Recommendation: 2010 Emeritus Vineyards, Hallberg Ranch is drinking excellent at the moment with a great front and mid palate full of ripe berry and balanced acidity. While the finish was a bit disappointing it is on my restaurant order again list.
Wednesday, April 3, 2013
The Cost of Drinking Local
In his latest blog Harvey Steinman, when discussing local Colorado wine, states "...I have a tough time justifying the prices asked for the drinkable but not exceptional wines I have tried" (to read the full article http://www.winespectator.com/blogs/show/id/48239)
What is the cost of drinking local? In Pennsylvania, specifically the greater Philadelphia region, there are two types of wineries, those who produce sweeter style hybrid wines and those who focus on traditional varietals. Around the greater Philadelphia area there are two wineries that standout for their quality, Penns Woods Winery and Va La Vineyards. Penns Woods focuses on Merlot, Cabernet and a Red Blend. Va La's red wines focus on Italian varietal blends. Both are gems in the local wine community. Both use at least some new French oak which has a high overhead.
I will visit each tasting room this spring and provide reviews of their wines in future posts.
But...
Both wineries charge a premium price for their wines ($25-$50 on average). For Penns Woods the challenge with Bordeaux varietals in the 25-50 range, the price to quality ratio of California (Napa, Sonoma, Paso) is tough to match. Plus the selection at the PA Wine and Spirits for California Cabernet and Merlot is extensive not to mention the deals and 90 point rating signs.
Va La offers unique blends that you will not find at any local wine shop but the price point is what many may consider high (the new 2009 Seed retails at $45). For many people it is often difficult to 'judge' a wine if they have no frame of reference or a wine to compare against. This can work in favor of the winery or against it.
Va La offers local cheeses and chocolates paired with their wine for an educational and enjoyable tasting. Penns Woods has an intimate tasting room and has offered the chance to be part of a harvest in past vintages. Both offering are invaluable experiences for the local wine drinker. Wine is much more than opening a Cult Cab or a First Growth Bordeaux and both wineries offer opportunity to expand your horizons.
The cost of these bottle may be high and they may never score 100 points from Spectator or Advocate but if we continue to push the farm to table movement we should also support the local wine movement especially when wineries are making a serious effort to craft serious wine.
Do you support local wineries?
What is the cost of drinking local? In Pennsylvania, specifically the greater Philadelphia region, there are two types of wineries, those who produce sweeter style hybrid wines and those who focus on traditional varietals. Around the greater Philadelphia area there are two wineries that standout for their quality, Penns Woods Winery and Va La Vineyards. Penns Woods focuses on Merlot, Cabernet and a Red Blend. Va La's red wines focus on Italian varietal blends. Both are gems in the local wine community. Both use at least some new French oak which has a high overhead.
I will visit each tasting room this spring and provide reviews of their wines in future posts.
But...
Both wineries charge a premium price for their wines ($25-$50 on average). For Penns Woods the challenge with Bordeaux varietals in the 25-50 range, the price to quality ratio of California (Napa, Sonoma, Paso) is tough to match. Plus the selection at the PA Wine and Spirits for California Cabernet and Merlot is extensive not to mention the deals and 90 point rating signs.
Va La offers unique blends that you will not find at any local wine shop but the price point is what many may consider high (the new 2009 Seed retails at $45). For many people it is often difficult to 'judge' a wine if they have no frame of reference or a wine to compare against. This can work in favor of the winery or against it.
Va La offers local cheeses and chocolates paired with their wine for an educational and enjoyable tasting. Penns Woods has an intimate tasting room and has offered the chance to be part of a harvest in past vintages. Both offering are invaluable experiences for the local wine drinker. Wine is much more than opening a Cult Cab or a First Growth Bordeaux and both wineries offer opportunity to expand your horizons.
The cost of these bottle may be high and they may never score 100 points from Spectator or Advocate but if we continue to push the farm to table movement we should also support the local wine movement especially when wineries are making a serious effort to craft serious wine.
Do you support local wineries?
Tuesday, April 2, 2013
"A.B.C."
"A.B.C." - Anything but Chardonnay is a common expression I hear from many in the wine community. The days of the buttery, fruit forward style of Chardonnay are supposedly gone (not true). And that days of Chardonnay as the dominant white grape was also on the horizon (also not true).
But have you replaced Chardonnay as the white wine in your house or cellar. In my cellar the only Chardonnay that exists are those from my Long Island wine clubs and even those bottles number fewer than 5 or 6. The majority of white wine in my cellar is now Sauvignon Blanc, mostly Girard and Kathryn Hall (oaked).
I have also ventured past sauvignon blanc to other white wines. By far my favorite white grape is viognier. Darioush, to me, is the benchmark for all viognier's. It has a floral bouquet, grapefruit/melon front palate, proper acidity and the mouth feel of a red wine. I have searched far and wide for other viognier's that compare and have yet to find many, actually most I have found are disappointing. The most promising viognier's have come from the Willamette Valley, specifically Penner-Ash.
Speaking of Oregon their version of Pinot Gris is outstanding and is worth the exploration. I started with Lange Estate in Dundee as a staple but also enjoyed the Pinot Gris from St. Innocent and Cristom in Eola-Amity.
Closer to home alternative whites that standout is Va La Vineyards 'La Prima Donna' which is worth the trip to Avondale. It is a white blend of mostly grapes you have probably never heard of besides Pinot Grigio. There is always a bottle in my cellar. This wine could be considered an East Coast cult wine.
Moving further into the direction of alternative is Albarino. The grape is native to Spain's Rias Baixas region and if you are a regular of the PA Wine and Spirits store you could of certainly seen these wines on display. It makes a crisp refreshing wine that has a good deal of complexity. Long Island has seen an increase of planting Albarino and I would recommend to track down Palmer Vineyards version of this grape (in 500ml bottles). I have at least three more in my cellar to see how they age.
Any what about Riesling? I will treat Riesling as a subspecies that will be covered in a future post.
What 'other' white wine grapes do you have in your cellar?
But have you replaced Chardonnay as the white wine in your house or cellar. In my cellar the only Chardonnay that exists are those from my Long Island wine clubs and even those bottles number fewer than 5 or 6. The majority of white wine in my cellar is now Sauvignon Blanc, mostly Girard and Kathryn Hall (oaked).
I have also ventured past sauvignon blanc to other white wines. By far my favorite white grape is viognier. Darioush, to me, is the benchmark for all viognier's. It has a floral bouquet, grapefruit/melon front palate, proper acidity and the mouth feel of a red wine. I have searched far and wide for other viognier's that compare and have yet to find many, actually most I have found are disappointing. The most promising viognier's have come from the Willamette Valley, specifically Penner-Ash.
Speaking of Oregon their version of Pinot Gris is outstanding and is worth the exploration. I started with Lange Estate in Dundee as a staple but also enjoyed the Pinot Gris from St. Innocent and Cristom in Eola-Amity.
Closer to home alternative whites that standout is Va La Vineyards 'La Prima Donna' which is worth the trip to Avondale. It is a white blend of mostly grapes you have probably never heard of besides Pinot Grigio. There is always a bottle in my cellar. This wine could be considered an East Coast cult wine.
Moving further into the direction of alternative is Albarino. The grape is native to Spain's Rias Baixas region and if you are a regular of the PA Wine and Spirits store you could of certainly seen these wines on display. It makes a crisp refreshing wine that has a good deal of complexity. Long Island has seen an increase of planting Albarino and I would recommend to track down Palmer Vineyards version of this grape (in 500ml bottles). I have at least three more in my cellar to see how they age.
Any what about Riesling? I will treat Riesling as a subspecies that will be covered in a future post.
What 'other' white wine grapes do you have in your cellar?
Monday, April 1, 2013
Twist-Off
I was recently in Atlanta at a restaurant for brunch where we ordered a bottle of Champagne. The bottle came wrapped in foil but once the foil was removed there was not a cork to pop but a twist-off cap. It is the first time I have seen a sparkling wine of any kind use a twist-off cap. The wine was a bit on the sweet side but the majority of our table was using the Champagne for Mimosa's.
Wine Spectator stated the following:
"According to our statistics based on wines reviewed in 2012 by Wine Spectator editors, 91 percent of New Zealand's wines were bottled under twist-off, followed by Australia (67 percent), Oregon (23 percent), Argentina (14 percent), Washington (12 percent) and California (8 percent).
By comparison, only 6 percent of Spanish wines reviewed by us in 2012 had twist-offs, followed by France, with 3 percent, and Italy, with only 2 percent."
Despite my shock about the the twist-off the Champagne was mostly being used as a mixer and of course jokes about twist off's followed from the table.
These type of incidents continue to slow down the traction that serious wines in twist-off's are trying to achieve. Any regular follower of New Zealand expects all their wines, even the high end, to have a twist off. And I am seeing more and more white wines from Napa, especially Sav Blanc, come in twist-off. The quality of wine these days can no longer be judged solely on what covers the bottle.
White wine and New Zealand aside, how do we feel about our red wines using twist-off instead of cork. Some would argue that their is a certain romance to uncorking a bottle. Others argue that it is what is inside the bottle that counts and too many wines have cork taint. Natural cork is a renewable resource and no one has calculated the impact to the environment of millions of twist-off's.
In certain cases drinking wine is much deeper than what is inside the bottle. The wine, much like a winery tour, is all about the feelings, memory and emotions that the wine triggers. From the time you cork the wine, to the decanting period, to finally sharing the wine it all builds in our mind and soul. I want my vintage Champange to "pop" or to focus on uncorking an older bottle. It builds the anticipation and the romance.
Too many experiences these days are instant gratification, enjoying your finest red, white and Champagne should not be one of them.
Where do you stand?
Wine Spectator stated the following:
"According to our statistics based on wines reviewed in 2012 by Wine Spectator editors, 91 percent of New Zealand's wines were bottled under twist-off, followed by Australia (67 percent), Oregon (23 percent), Argentina (14 percent), Washington (12 percent) and California (8 percent).
By comparison, only 6 percent of Spanish wines reviewed by us in 2012 had twist-offs, followed by France, with 3 percent, and Italy, with only 2 percent."
Despite my shock about the the twist-off the Champagne was mostly being used as a mixer and of course jokes about twist off's followed from the table.
These type of incidents continue to slow down the traction that serious wines in twist-off's are trying to achieve. Any regular follower of New Zealand expects all their wines, even the high end, to have a twist off. And I am seeing more and more white wines from Napa, especially Sav Blanc, come in twist-off. The quality of wine these days can no longer be judged solely on what covers the bottle.
White wine and New Zealand aside, how do we feel about our red wines using twist-off instead of cork. Some would argue that their is a certain romance to uncorking a bottle. Others argue that it is what is inside the bottle that counts and too many wines have cork taint. Natural cork is a renewable resource and no one has calculated the impact to the environment of millions of twist-off's.
In certain cases drinking wine is much deeper than what is inside the bottle. The wine, much like a winery tour, is all about the feelings, memory and emotions that the wine triggers. From the time you cork the wine, to the decanting period, to finally sharing the wine it all builds in our mind and soul. I want my vintage Champange to "pop" or to focus on uncorking an older bottle. It builds the anticipation and the romance.
Too many experiences these days are instant gratification, enjoying your finest red, white and Champagne should not be one of them.
Where do you stand?
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