Tuesday, April 9, 2013

In Defense of Merlot

"I am not drinking f****** Merlot!" This single quote from 2004 is sited by many to be the decline of Merlot in the United States. This is despite the fact that the prized bottle was 1961 Château Cheval Blanc which is a Cabernet Franc / Merlot Blend.

Merlot, much like any other popular varietal, can suffer from wineries that do not show it the utmost care and do not plant it in the ideal spots.

In the past years I have become a very big fan of Merlot (or as my friend Dave tells winemaker's "good Merlot"). At recent tastings at Cardinale and Jarvis, the W.S. Keyes and 2009 Merlot respectively, were both the highlights of my tasting flight. Others in Napa Valley (including Darioush, Pride, Hourglass, Realm) produce world class Merlot that show integrated tannin, show dark fruits and a long smooth finish. While each has its own distinct style each of these wineries make Merlot that would convert any naysayer.

Wine Spectator has rated 57 wines from the 2008-2010 vintages 90 points or higher and all but two retail for under $100. Almost 40% of those with a 90 rating (from Napa alone) retail for under $50. The price quality ratio for "good Merlot" is much better than that of Napa Cabernet.

Broadening our search in the same vintages 2008-2010 Washington state had 85 Merlot's rated 90 points or higher under $50 out of 95 total Merlot's rated 90 points or above.

On the east coast the defining varietal for Long Island and there are many strong producers.

With so many options available those who have abandoned Merlot should return. You will not be disappointed!

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